Wine Focus: Open that Bottle MONTH ... EXTENDED!

[Jenise]

Important to get a handle on ageability.

Their regular PN has a 5-7 year window usually.

I know, which is why I made a point to bring it up. I didn't see this as an 8-10 year wine--my usual window for hanging onto pinots. But it's so GOOD, would you want to wait? I recommend you experience one soon.

Good plan! Now - should I try a different one than you did....?

[Jenise]

Probably. You and I have tasted together over the years often enough that we understand each other's palates and can trust that we'd be on the same page.

[David M. Bueker]

Every "that bottle" has a story. Some are more exciting, some evoke specific memories. This bottle is a reminder of another time and another place. I bought a case at half price when Table & Vine was relocating their store. Should have bought two cases.

So not the "best" wine I am going to open this month, but a memorable one.

2001 Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Estournelles-St.-Jacques - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (6/1/2020)
I said three years ago that I would be queuing up my remaining bottles of this wine for near-term drinking. Then plans met reality. Still four more to go after this one, but hopefully similar results. Evolving red fruit and vibrant earth aromas lead into a vibrant palate expression that carries the earthiness through the finish. It's fabulously clean, while also showing a more rustic side of Gevrey than some of the more famous sites. It's hard to reconcile the bit of wildness with the nuance of the flavors. I guess that's just Burgundy - ever a mystery. Not the be all and end all of Burgundy expression, but if I wanted to introduce someone to the joys of aged Burgs, this would not be a bad wine at all to make my case.

Hi, all. Looking at my inventory, there are a few possibilities for June. All are, for us, higher-end splurge.

Sojourn PN Sonoma Coast, Sangiacomo Vineyard, 2013
J. Bookwalter, Red Blend Protagonist, Red Mtn, WA, 2007
Rasa, Riseling, Columbia Vly WA, 2013
Domenico, Aglianico, Amador County CA, 2012

Rather diverse West Coast options. Ideas welcome!

Meanwhile, got another Rasa offer today for Occam's Razor and QED. Sure most of the Rasa fans out there got same, but if anyone wants details just PM me and I can send along. May require being on current mailing list, or not. Who knows? Obviously trying to sell the wine.

[Jenise]

Think that Bookwalter likely needs to go, Pat. 2007 wasn't a 'keeper' style vintage.

That reminds me - I 'found' a couple of bottles of 1993 Portteus Cabernet Sauvignon in the cellar. What do you think the chances of that being a good thing might be......?

[David M. Bueker]

That reminds me - I 'found' a couple of bottles of 1993 Portteus Cabernet Sauvignon in the cellar. What do you think the chances of that being a good thing might be......?

The wine always has the last word!

That reminds me - I 'found' a couple of bottles of 1993 Portteus Cabernet Sauvignon in the cellar. What do you think the chances of that being a good thing might be......?

The wine always has the last word!

Sounds like my wife.......

[David M. Bueker]

From my favorite winery in all the world...

2007 Dönnhoff Felsenberg Riesling Großes Gewächs - Germany, Nahe (6/2/2020)
Unfortunately my last bottle, but what a wine! Grilled pear, cinnamon spice, peach, ginger, fresh hay, etcetera...There’s more going on than I can possibly catalog. The acidity is enlivening, but not dominating. An infinity pool of flavor, with a finish that extends to the horizon. It’s drinking incredibly well now, but has the body and structure to go on for ten more year or even longer.

[Jenise]

That reminds me - I 'found' a couple of bottles of 1993 Portteus Cabernet Sauvignon in the cellar. What do you think the chances of that being a good thing might be......?

Dunno. Haven't found '93 to be standout among older vintages of anything in Washington in the few verticals I've had in the way'92, '94 and '95 usually impress. I think I mentioned to you that Paul (Portteus) poured his 84 and 85 for us. One was old but deliciously necrotic, and the other actually impressive. Those were his first two vintages, I believe.

I opened another bottle of 1986 Mouton. This one had an intact cork (the first bottle's cork had leakage all the way around) and the wine was more of what I'd been expecting. Tight as a drum when first poured out, but with aeration lovely, complex dark fruit aromas appeared. Full flavor on the palate, with a hint of tannins. Long finish. Now this is more like it!

-Paul W.

[Jenise]

Good for you, Paul, that's swinging for the fences!! I own that wine. Last one we opened was about four years ago, and totally a wow wine--the kind of experience that makes you realize you forgot just how amazing the First Growths can be.

Think that Bookwalter likely needs to go, Pat. 2007 wasn't a 'keeper' style vintage.

Thanks, Jenise. Wine was planned for 2020, so why not in June?

Developing an appreciation for Red Mtn. reds.

[David M. Bueker]

I had never really bought Sauternes until the 2001 vintage was lauded as legendary. Holy cow!

2001 Château Rieussec - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes (6/3/2020)
Succulent, mesmerizing and downright delicious. A perfect blend of spice, honey-laced butter, concentrated yellow fruit and a subtle finishing kick of licorice, makes this one of the most complex sweet wines I have had in a very long time. It’s a completely different animal than it was 17 or so years ago when it came out, but no less compelling. A treasure in a glass.

[Jenise]

Oooh Dave, major envy on that one. I only had one bottle (a 375) and opened it at Christmas early on. It was the most perfect Sauternes I've ever tasted and made me realize how, while I admire aged bottles, I'm kind of missing out on some of the fireworks by not also drinking some young.

I still have a whole case of 2001 Rieussec. I'll have to open one.

-Paul W.

[David M. Bueker]

Oooh Dave, major envy on that one. I only had one bottle (375) and opened it at Christmas early on. It was the most perfect Sauternes I've ever tasted and made me realize how, while I admire aged bottles, I'm kind of missing out on some of the fireworks by not also drinking some young.

It was utter magic when it was released, as was La Tour Blanche. I blew through most of my 12 bottles in the first 18 months. It's a totally different wine now, but still amazing.

[David M. Bueker]

The 2000 Mouton Rothschild is mesmerizing. I had two modest pours (nine of us were sharing the bottle), and the first one was all red fruit, leather, tobacco and subtle wood spice. It was beautiful. The bottle had been opened eight hours ahead, but not decanted. About two hours later I noticed there was a good 1/3 of the bottle left, so I took another small pour. I smelled it, and was transported. I was no longer on the back patio, but instead inside an old, small, rustic Cape Cod Christmas shop. The aromas of brown spices, cedar, dried fruit, aged oak, salty air and worn antiques took me directly to Chatham, MA at age 11, wandering and looking, engrossed in the time I spent in a place that seemed so far away, but was only 4 hours from home.

Sigh.

[Robin Garr]

Clos Roche Blanche 2012 "L'Arpent Rouge" Touraine ($18.89)

I had two bottles left of this delicious Loire Pineau d'Aunis. Now there's only one left! Not meant for long aging, perhaps, this eight-year-old wine has taken on a hint of bronze at the edge of its clear, dark-ruby color, and a whiff of oxidation that becomes more apparent after an hour in the glass. It's still very much alive, though, offering that characteristic Pineau d'Aunis blast of freshly ground white pepper backed by tart cranberries and subtle stony minerality on the nose and palate, with a modest 12% alcohol that doesn't get in the way. A complex mix of pepper and red fruit with crisp acidity lingers in a very long finish. It's a beauty as it moves into old age, but even if you have better cellar conditions than I do, I wouldn't keep it much longer.

[It was utter magic when it was released, as was La Tour Blanche. I blew through most of my 12 bottles in the first 18 months. It's a totally different wine now, but still amazing.

I bought a case each of 2001 Rieussec, La Tour Blanche, and Suideraut. I had enough late-80s Sauternes that I managed to keep my paws off of the 2001s. Sounds like it's time to open a few.

-Paul W.

[David M. Bueker]

Clos Roche Blanche 2012 "L'Arpent Rouge" Touraine ($18.89)

I had two bottles left of this delicious Loire Pineau d'Aunis. Now there's only one left! Not meant for long aging, perhaps, this eight-year-old wine has taken on a hint of bronze at the edge of its clear, dark-ruby color, and a whiff of oxidation that becomes more apparent after an hour in the glass. It's still very much alive, though, offering that characteristic Pineau d'Aunis blast of freshly ground white pepper backed by tart cranberries and subtle stony minerality on the nose and palate, with a modest 12% alcohol that doesn't get in the way. A complex mix of pepper and red fruit with crisp acidity lingers in a very long finish. It's a beauty as it moves into old age, but even if you have better cellar conditions than I do, I wouldn't keep it much longer.

Unicorn alert!

Wow - some of you guys like drinking Sauternes very young! I still have 83, 86 and 88s to finish up and consider anything from this millennium to be too young. I get the attraction of youthful sweet delight, but I guess I just prefer the complexity that age brings.

Will say that I had a 2009 Rieussec awhile ago that was fantabulous - hard to keep the corkscrew off things like that while waiting for maturity (mine, or the wine's)

[Robin Garr]

Unicorn alert!

unicorn.gif