In the last few days, I have opened a couple of very interesting whites. Up to now I have been underwhelmed by Chave’s famous white Hermitage. My main reservation has been a certain dullness for my palate because of low acidity, which detracts from its otherwise fascinating and complex aromas. With this 1998, I didn’t feel this lack at all, but the pairing undoubtedly helped. Almost the opposite occurred with the young Vouvray from Chidaine, one of my favourite growers. In fact the Chidaine might have worked with the lobster dish, albeit without the mature complexity of the Chave.
1998 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage (02/05/2020)
I have admired other vintages of Chave's white Hermitage but have been unable to love them. This bottle of 1998 is the first time I understand why many people consider this one of the world's greatest whites. A large part of this changed perception may be due to having finally found an appropriate pairing, namely lobster à l'armoricaine, where the rich and slightly sweet and spicy sauce brought out the wine's acidity contributing a liveliness which I felt lacking in 1991, 1995 and 1996. Colour was a quite deep and brilliant amber with no browning. The nose was well developed with notes of nuts, accacia and dry honey. The palate was medium++ bodied, quite dense and not bone dry showing a linear shape, discreet mature dried fruit, an overlay of the aromas from the nose, gentle spice, grilled touches and fine acidity leading to a long fragrant finish supported by a lot of backbone. Excellent.
2017 François Chidaine Vin de France Sec Les Argiles - France, Vin de France (01/05/2020)
This wine is a Vouvray but because of pettifogging restrictions in the appellation may not be labelled as such. Chidaine is one of the Loire valley's best producers but, in its present state, I liked this wine less than most others from him. My main reservation concerned sweetness greater than I expect from a sec and as a result it was not an ideal pairing with a simply prepared barbue. As always with Loire chenin, it was excellent with goat cheese. The wine itself is quite full, fruity and round with a boiled sweet touch and underlying burnished notes and with less tension and focus than in many vintages but still with just enough minerality and acidity for balance. I expect this to acquire greater complexity with age and next time I will try to find a better pairing more suitable to its tendre character. Good.
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