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WTN: The good and Baden

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Mark S

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WTN: The good and Baden

by Mark S » Fri Apr 17, 2020 7:25 pm

I was curious, and so I bought. How could you not be, when the seller called them "these were the best Spatburgunders that Baden, and possibly all of Germany, had to offer"? Yeah, I'm a sucker for the spiel. So maybe I held them too long? Perhaps...

Henrik Mobitz, Baden, Pinot Noir, 'Kanzel', 2012
Henrik Mobitz, Baden, Pinot Noir, 'Koepfle', 2012

I'm going to clump these together because - stylistically - they are so similar. Both at 13% alcohol, the color is very light and both are quite acidic and remind me of lesser 2008 red Burgundy. Thin, acidic, and very savory. I would say 'red fruited', but really that is a stretch, as the fruit is on the savory end (think apple skin and cherry bark, more akin to roots and leaves than the actual fruit) and very uncharming and austere. One had a slight reductiveness, with sulfur on the finish. One of the bottles I had to stop drinking after about a 1/3rd of it...at least I can cook with it. 1 more of each remaining, but not sure if time will be kind to it.
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: The good and Baden

by Dale Williams » Fri Apr 17, 2020 10:42 pm

wait , but is this an Important Producer?!?!?!?!? :)
Is it like a hypothetical combination of Amoureuses and Wehlener Sonn?
Is it the vinuous equivalent of Stravinsky and KRS-1?

Sorry re the disappointment , but Baden PN is a fun thing to try.
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Mark S

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Re: WTN: The good and Baden

by Mark S » Sat Apr 18, 2020 12:13 pm

Dale, perhaps it is. I was expecting these to be more like Enderle & Moll in their freshness. But even the cru wines from E&M haven't aged to expectations, as I was disappointed with the 2009's I cellared, so maybe the Moebitz wines are better in youth.

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