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WTN: Operetta

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Jenise

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WTN: Operetta

by Jenise » Fri Jan 24, 2020 5:17 pm

A local deli puts on winemaker dinners now and then. The deli's owner is wine-obsessed, particularly Italy, Burgundy and Rhone.
The food isn't cheff-world class but nobody tries harder, and the dinners are both ridiculously well-priced (just $75, with wine) and convivial (long community tables, always make new friends). Love being a customer of theirs and invariably I end up in the backroom at the end of the night, sipping something with the owner--this time a Chinato called Americano. And I always buy a case to support the small business owners in my community--the equivalent of buying a bottle when you visit a winery.

The winemaker present was Tuscan winemaker Antonio Sanguinetti, previously unknown to me.

Anyway, the evening began with:

NV Bocelli Prosecco Glera
Don't normally comment on NV wines--what's the point. And I'm not a fan of Prosecco or celebrity-named bottles (yeah this is Andrea Bocelli), but have to admit I liked this especially with some delicately sweet little raw oysters that are the best I've had from this region. Definitely not run-of-the-mill--more dry than not with bold citrus and minerality, it offers a lot more character than typical. Bought three bottles for summer sipping (if summer ever comes). Next up with mushroom and kale ravioli in parmesan brodo:

2017 Palamà Verdeca Arcangelo Salento IGT
Deep yellow color like most Falanghinas I've had, fantastic body and minerality, dry with vibrant preserved lemon acidity. Verdeca's the grape and very unusual--I've never had anything like it--without being weird. Ordered some: I want to cook food for this wine! Not bad with the ravioli but it should have been paired with the raddichio/pork belly that came later. Then, a chianti with giant antipasto platters:

2017 Antonio Sanguineti Chianti Sangiovese Blend, Sangiovese
The only wine I didn't particularly like. Harsh black fruit and mustard greens, no red fruit or anything I treasure about sangiovese showing. I finished my portion, because wine, but didn't even consider ordering any.

2015 Antonio Sanguineti Nessun Dorma Toscana IGT SuperTuscan
AHH, much better. Won't challenge Scassicaia or anything but this is a very satisfying Tuscan blend (for $14 locally), has the balance and fruit I want from a Tuscan red and it handled the bitter raddichio served with it well. Bought half a case for pizza days ahead. Then for lamb shanks with polenta and gremolata:

2015 Leonardo Cecchini Ripasso della Valpolicella Classico Superiore Corvina Blend
Enjoyed a lot. From a winery owned by a family who has the oldest family owned trattoria in Verona--since 1750. Very good concentration and balance with that raisiny complexity so beguiling in this style wine. Fairly priced at $20. But even that I liked the previous wine better at any price, so passed on a purchase.

The night before we'd coincidentally enjoyed this Washington version of an Italian grape:

2015 Portteus Barbera Rattlesnake Hills
First tasted last summer; it's even better now, more integrated. Pomegranate and boysenberry fruit with loamy/mushroomy earthiness underpinned by surprisingly authentic Italianate acidity. An unpretentious, delicious bargain in Washington wine.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov

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