Monday was our annual white truffle and Nebbiolo dinner at Ben and Wendy’s. 9 members of our Bordeaux grew were joined by a Piedmont fanatic from a bit upstate. We started with a comparison of 5 potato chips from Mountain Sweet Berry Farm , each from a different potato variety
2007 Raveneau Montmains Chablis 1er
Bright, young, flinty and fresh. B+/A-
2010 Vilmart Coeur de Cuvee Champagne
Quite good, chalky, orange peel and apple, apple turnover from oven. Good acidity, long., A-
We went to table where menu was
Soft-scrambled eggs w/ white truffles
Tajarin w/ butter and white truffles
Braised beef shanks (including marrow) with polenta and green beans
Homemade vanilla ice cream w/ white truffles
Flight 1
1989 Aldo Conterno Bussia Soprano Barolo
Fresh ripe berry fruit, a little tar and some ferric notes, tea leaves. Lovely and ready. A-
.
1989 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo
A couple of us felt there was a little spritz/prickliness, even though it had been decanted for many hours. But it didn’t detract for me, though this was still a bit in a shell, you could feel and taste the great wine underneath. Red fruit, Christmas tree, firm tannins, tangy acids. A-
1999 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo
Very young, smoke and anise, needs time. B+/B for now, could be as great as the ‘89.
Flight 2
1989 G. Mascarello Monprivato Barolo
Quite firmly wrapped in structure, but deep. B+ tonight
1999 G. Mascarello Monprivato Barolo
This took a while to open up in glass, but I liked, perfumed with herbs and smoke. B+/A-
1999 Vietti Rocche Barolo
I didn’t love this (to be fair, it was carried to tasting and only decanted then), seems a little disjointed, acid and tannin distract, some mocha and vanilla over quiet fruit, B-
Flight 3
1989 B Giacosa Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba Barolo Riserva
A legend living up to rep. Black cherries, smoke, tar, floral notes, balanced and long. Sweet. A-
1999 B. Giacosa Le Rocche di Falletto Barolo
Not a Riserva but stunning. Rich fruit, anise, coffee, tar, so long. Squeaks into first place in strong competition. A-/A
1999 G. Conterno Cascina Francia Barolo
A great wine that is a bit overshadowed by the Giacosas. On its own would be a wow wine- beautiful fruit, balance, with structure for age. B+/A-
Flight 4
1999 Sandrone Cannubi Boschis Barolo
Sweet fruit but not overripe, macerated cherry with some exotic sandalwood. B+
2009 Voerzio Cerequio Barolo
Accidental wine- he thought he had grabbed and opened the 1999. Mocha and kirsch, really not at moment what I want. B-
But once Bill looked at cork and realized he brought up and opened wrong wine, he decided to bring a 1990 Ch. d’Yquem. Sweet (in both senses)!! Dark color but excellent bottle- vanilla, apricot, honeycomb. A-/B+
Great night. Ben and Wendy were fantastic hosts, lovely truffles, all the food was outstanding, company and wines as well.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.