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WTN: 59 Nebbs, ESJ, Briords, LdH, Fricke, Adam, PN

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Dale Williams

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WTN: 59 Nebbs, ESJ, Briords, LdH, Fricke, Adam, PN

by Dale Williams » Tue Oct 22, 2019 9:06 am

With rack of lamb with berbere, whole wheat couscous, bok choy, the 2000 Lopez de Heredia Tondonia Reserva. I’m a big LdH fan but this wasn’t saying much, high acid, more oak than fruit, I’ll hold rest, for now B-/C+

Friday we went to Sripraphai in Queens for a belated 60th party for brother-in-law. Nice assortment of dishes- tom yum goon, watercress with squid and shrimp , drunken noodles, kao soy (egg noodles with tofu), shrimp curry, Chinese broccoli with crispy pork, and fried sea bass

1959 Umberto Fiore Gattinara Spanna Riserva
Stood up for 2 weeks, carefully double-decanted, surprisingly dark. Knew a terrible match with food, but honoring the birthday. But who what a weird nose. Volatile, with some wet cement meets paint thinner. Actually when you got past nose (hard to do) it had fairly full sweet fruit, red cherry with spice. But that nose…….C/C+

2009 AJ Adam Hofberg Kabinett

Much better with food! Drinks more like a Spatlese (or old school Auslese), plenty of sugar, some weight, bright red apple with ginger and rocks. B+

Saturday was Ruby’s 3rd birthday, and we hosted a party/lunch. Guests included a Cavapoo, an Aussie Shepherd mix, a beagle mix, a Griffon Bruxellois, and a Bernadoodle puppy. Their people enjoyed hot dogs, snacks, and hot cider. I had intended to open a Mulderbosch Faithful Hound, but the beagle’s person is a winegeek so I upgraded to the 2001 Edmunds St John Bassetti Syrah. Yum! Black fruit, smoke, and a hint of grilled meat - to be fanciful I’d say possibly marinated in soy! Some light tannin in background, good acidic balance. Took remainder to a dinner party that night where it had held up well, with a little leather added. A-

That night we went to some friends’ apartment for a dinner party. I brought smoked bluefish on watermelon radish canapes, someone else brought fried green tomatoes with remoulade. Dinner was a pork/butternut stew, fennel/apple slaw, and rice.

NV Jose Michel Rose Champagne
Red berries and cherries, competent, brisk. B-

2015 Bergstrom Cumberland Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette)
Red berries and spice, fairly full, good structure. My first Bergstrom, I liked. B/B+

2015 Eva Fricke Kiedrich Riesling (Rheingau)
Good acids, dry to point of austerity, better with stew that on its own. B

Betsy had a very long recording day Sunday, I did dinner, and her sister and brother-in-law joined us for late dinner. Oysters, butternut soup, 5 spice duck breast over sauteed savoy and daikon greens, roasted rutabaga and shallots, mizuna/pear/chevre salad. Kath had been apple picking and brought pie for dessert.

2018 Pepiere Clos des Briords Muscadet
Another stellar Briords, apple, citrus and saline with herby notes. Plenty of acid, rich but taut. Oystershell finish. This should age well, but unless I hide bottles I fear I will drink young. A-/B+

1959 Vietti Barbaresco
Since the Gattinara hadn’t shown well Friday, I opened this, decanted 2 hours before dinner. Much more typical color (pale) and nose. Some nice dried red fruit but more defined by dried floral notes and leather, some brown sugar on finish, fun. B/B+

1999 Lafarge Volnay Vendanges Selectionnees
wow, 20 year old village wine and it's still a bit tannic, acidic, and shutdown. But with time it begins to unfold, black cherries and a bit of mocha, some mushroom, real acidic backbone. No hurry here B+

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: 59 Nebbs, ESJ, Briords, LdH, Fricke, Adam, PN

by David M. Bueker » Tue Oct 22, 2019 9:15 am

That is the second highly complimentary note on the 2001 Bassetti that I have seen in the last 24 hours. Time to dig one out!
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Tim York

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Re: WTN: 59 Nebbs, ESJ, Briords, LdH, Fricke, Adam, PN

by Tim York » Thu Oct 24, 2019 3:06 am

Interesting that you decanted the 59s, Dale. I stopped decanting elderly wines when I concluded that a mere 40 year old, Ducru 70 IIRC, was fading too fast during service as a result of too much air. I'm wondering if your Gattinara's performance might not have been adversely affected. I accept that without a decant sediment can be disturbed while pouring but I prefer that to the risk of precipitating decline.
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: 59 Nebbs, ESJ, Briords, LdH, Fricke, Adam, PN

by Dale Williams » Thu Oct 24, 2019 8:35 am

There of course are endless arguments about decanting. I am not rigid, except with old Nebbiolo. There is something about the fine sediment in Nebbiolo that is truly bitter/offputting. I always decant, and always stand up at least 2 weeks (on rare occasions I can't stand up I try to open at angle in cellar- I need to get a cradle)

I really don't know anyone who drinks older Piedmont who is not an advocate of decanting. And I don't know any store that sells more old Piedmont than Chambers (with guarantee!) , and this is what their website says
We have observed countless times that some wines benefit from extended time in the decanter; this is especially true for Barolo and Barbaresco, including most very old bottles of those wines. Too many times the very last of the bottle has been the most delicious – and not because we’ve been drinking!

Barolo and Barbaresco: 6-8 hours for bottles up to 20 years old; 3-4 hours for older wines;


As to the Gattinara, the nose was there on opening, the taste was better at restaurant

With Bordeaux, I think it's case by case. If its not a wine I've experienced, I'll just decant for sediment immediately before serving. Of course it also depends on occasion- at home or away? I actually did decant '70 Ducru for a vertical 8 years ago and it did fine
1970 Ch. Ducru-Beaucaillou (St Julien)
Double-decanted in afternoon. Showing well, rather plush black fruit on palate, a touch of animal, some complex tertiary aromas of cigarbox/tobacco/cedar family. Tangy acids, resolved tannins. B+/A

Bottle by bottle
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Tim York

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Re: WTN: 59 Nebbs, ESJ, Briords, LdH, Fricke, Adam, PN

by Tim York » Thu Oct 24, 2019 10:27 am

Thanks, Dale, for that advice re mature Nebbiolo. I've never been bothered by sediment in Barolo/Barbaresco around the 20 year mark but they may well have been improved by some airing in a decanter as you and Chambers suggest. As for the Monfortino 1990, which have been holding in reserve for a suitable occasion, sediment may well be an issue when I finally get to them.
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: 59 Nebbs, ESJ, Briords, LdH, Fricke, Adam, PN

by Dale Williams » Thu Oct 24, 2019 1:26 pm

Tim,
a suitable occasion for 1990 Monfortino is defined as "when WlDGers from NY visit", correct? :D
Seriously, that's a legendary bottle (especially since he didn't make an '89). I've only had a couple of Monfortinos, but loved- '99 a year or two ago had clear A+ potential.
The bitter suspended fine sediment (the bottles also have more "standard" coarse sediment) is most noticeable in 30+- maybe even 40+ -Nebbiolos . It will be interesting to see what happens when the "modern" Barolos and Barbarescos start hitting that stage. But Nebbiolo is my favorite grape for drinking at 40+. Even unheralded producers often taste great.
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Re: WTN: 59 Nebbs, ESJ, Briords, LdH, Fricke, Adam, PN

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Sat Oct 26, 2019 6:49 am

Dale..which wine did you prefer with the pork butternut squash? Gonna take to a pot luck next week!
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Re: WTN: 59 Nebbs, ESJ, Briords, LdH, Fricke, Adam, PN

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Sat Oct 26, 2019 6:51 am

Thinking PN or a Riesling?
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Re: WTN: 59 Nebbs, ESJ, Briords, LdH, Fricke, Adam, PN

by Tim York » Sat Oct 26, 2019 8:45 am

Dale Williams wrote:a suitable occasion for 1990 Monfortino is defined as "when WlDGers from NY visit", correct? :D


Indeed! WLDGers' visits are the ideal reason for opening best bottles. :D :D
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