by Bob Ross » Wed Feb 07, 2007 1:52 pm
Washington Irving has a great definition of "cloying" as used in wine tasting: "It had a cloying sweetness that palled upon the taste." It's never a positive note.
I agree that "jammy" can be good or bad depending on the variety being tasted.
Robin wrote an excellent note awhile back that illustrates the point:
"Chateau Grande Cassagne "G.S." 2003 Costières de Nîmes ($11.99). This is a very dark-garnet wine, black at the center. Its rich, warm aromas of cherry and raspberry are so fruit-forward as to seem almost "grapey," with a whack of raw new oak. Just as big and ripe on the palate, it's a bit of a "fruit-bomb," although there's plenty of acidity and an edge of drying tannins to back it up. The torrid summer of '03 fostered an over-the-top, jammy wine with a distinct California accent, a wine that seems almost consciously manipulated as a ratings-point grabber. A blend of Grenache and Syrah (thus the "G.S."), it likely drew raves from Parker and Wine Spectator, and it's an imposing wine if you like 'em in this style; but it's very atypical of the Rhône. US Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C. (Mar 23, 2005)"
Not a bad wine if you like the style -- it's not "cloying" for Robin, but might well be for someone who likes a leaner style of Rhône wine.
It's worth mentioning that, as Robin suggests, "jammy" is always a positive descriptor for Robert Parker: here's his definition of the word:
"jammy: When wines have a great intensity of fruit from excellent ripeness they can be jammy, which is a very concentrated, flavorful wine with superb extract. In great vintages such as 1961, 1978, 1985, 1989, 1990, and 1995, some of the wines are so concentrated that they are said to be jammy."
Parker does use the word "jammy" quite often. A few years ago I did a word count of eight years of his tasting notes; "jammy" was the 16th most common word in his tasting notes:
fruit 11,270 53.4%
nose 8,256 39.2%
I 7,999 38.0%
finish 7,258 34.4%
rich 6,690 31.7%
full bodied 6,118 29.0%
my 2,666 12.6%
reveals 2,508 11.9%
impressive 2,284 10.8%
concentration 2,251 10.7%
Plenty 2,233 10.6%
great 2,118 10.0%
Readers 2,009 9.5%
attractive 1,949 9.2%
outstanding 1,932 9.2%
jammy 1,918 9.1%
elegant 1,875 8.9%
smoky 1,868 8.9%
delicious 1,857 8.8%
purity 1,794 8.5%
personality 1,720 8.2%
extremely 1,350 6.4%
saturated 1,076 5.1%
extraordinary 1,059 5.0%
you 759 3.6%
exotic 622 3.0%
Kacher 592 2.8%
unquestionably 432 2.0%
Regards, Bob