Thanks to everyone who gave me a bit of guidance in anticipation of this dinner, particularly Marc, Dan, Dave and Sam. After ten years of drinking Burgundies with great pleasure, I'm still deeply intimidated by tasting Burgundies with people who are experts in the area. You guys gave me a bit of backbone.
26 guests shared a wonderful dinner at
Daniel Wednesday night in New York City, the great majority of whom were Burgundy lovers with large Burgundy cellars and who had traveled to Burgundy a number of times. Two of us were generalists [I confess being deeply intimidated by Burgundy wine lovers], and only one person didn't care much about wine. She got a free ticket because a friend couldn't attend. and, as a food expert, she wanted to learn more about wine. I was able to spend at least a few minutes with almost all of the attendees, and spent three hours with the seven other guests at my table. The only person I knew beforehand was Daniel Johannes, who was acting as wine director at Daniel during the evening, but who popped in from to time to make announcements and press the flesh generally. [I'll try not to identify any of the attendees on privacy grounds.]
Jacques Lardière was an excellent presenter, with very good English, fast speaking, dedicated, enthusiastic, believable – a wonderfully warm handshake -- charming in the way he asks for English translations from his audiences. He is obviously a very skillful winemaker, but he came across as a poet to me. His intensity was amazing; another guest commented: "He feels so strongly about these wines; I'm a little embarrassed that I don't feel as strongly as he does." A very believable man.
Lardière said a winemaker must focus on what is in the grape. He said 20,000 molecules in the grape become three molecules in the wine; the goal is to make the wine consumer forget the details; the goal is to make the consumer remember only the wine in the glass.
Lardière said: "We must be humble. We never know the truth. We can only try."
Lardière mentioned that the 1985 vintage was the best in Burgundy since 1978, which gave me an opportunity to ask how it compared with the 2005 vintage. Lardière strongly supported the 1985 vintage -- smaller in quantity but generally a great deal of wonderful wine. The 2005 vintage was, he said, much larger in quantity, and had some wonderful wines, but had many mediocre wines as well.
Near the end of the evening, I asked Lardière about screwtops, and he clearly knows a great deal about the subject. He said he had studied the subject over 30 years ago, particularly in Switzerland where thought was given to how many threads should be used, what materials would work best, etc. He said: "The English pretend this is a new subject, but it is very old news indeed." He indicated that Beaujolais and Village wines should be under screwcap, and that Jadot was conducting comparative studies of higher level Burgundies under a variety of closures, vintage by vintage. He said he wasn't yet sure if fine Burgundies could develop "life" under screwcap. In any event, this is clearly a subject he's discussed in detail elsewhere, folks were starting to leave, and I thanked him for what he told us.
Incidentally, the sommelier for our table is a regular sommelier at Daniel but currently on maternity leave; she was working part time handling special events like this dinner. Normally she said she opened hundreds of bottles of wine a week. Corked wines represent a "hard" 8% of all wines opened in her experience, but the percentages could easily be higher -- "20 in a row might be just fine, and then three in a row could be corked." She said in her experience, California wines suffered more from corkiness – significantly more than Australian and European wines did.
She said that so far this evening one of the 14 bottles they had opened was corked. Another bottle showed little fruit, and might have TCA levels below human detection levels, but enough to adversely affect the fruit.
There was a great deal more information especially from Lardière, but it was a night for enjoying wine, food and conversation -- my note taking suffered severely.
Daniel served a number of starters during the cocktail hour with a lovely champagne: 1998 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs France. Lovely tiny bubbles, lovely fruit tastes, a yeasty finish that was very fine. 4*. [There was a charming white Burgundy as well, but I've lost my notes for that offering.]
The dinner itself was served in a large private dining room with three tables, a ten and two eights, with lots of space between tables. Beautifully appointed with muted colors, immaculate linens, exceptional china and glasses. The essence of what makes Daniel one of the great restaurants of the world.
Maine Sea Scallops Carpaccio
Avocado, Tarragon, Pink Grapefruit Gelée
Criot-Batard-Montrachet 2002
I was wonderfully lucky to be sitting next to two very advanced Burgundy fans on my right, and the recipe book editor/ Food website writer on my left. As I mentioned earlier, she wasn't very interested in the wines, but had exceptional taste for both the wines and the food, and taught me a great deal about the dishes. And the Burgers were delighted to set me straight when I stumbled on the nuances of the wines. It couldn't have been better company for this relative novice in both disciplines.
At first the Criot-Batard-Montrachet was terribly harsh and acidic at the get go -- even the Burgers complained about how hard it was to taste young Burgundies and try to predict how they might turn out. Especially if you were tasting a dozen or more. The Carpaccio was a triumph, with excellent mouth feel, and the sharpness of the grapefruit providing a lovely counterpoint. A grapefruit element in the wine reinforced that counterpoint and cleansed the palate at the same time. Excellent food and wine matching -- and the wine developed very nicely during the three hours I nursed it. There was almost no aroma in the beginning, but by the end of the night the empty glass was singing with rich and complex aromas! And one of the Burgers pointed out a licorice note, which ripen and got stronger -- a rich Australian licorice, quite compelling. 4*+.
Baked New England Cod
Dungeness Crab Cream, Mojave Raisins, Lemon Confit
Corton-Charlemagne 1985
Corton-Charlemagne 1979
The cod was meltingly sweet and soft, the crab cream struck an earthy/salty note, the lemon added pleasant acidity, the raisins a note of sweet complexity and interesting mouth feel. Frankly the dish was so nicely balanced that the wine didn't really add to the pleasure but stood alone -- a palate cleanser but two way stops, neither was an integral part of one journey. [The Foodie and I were both baffled by the "Mojave" -- I learned later that they are vine ripened raisins, artisanal raisins, but I'm still baffled about the source of the name itself.]
The 1985 Corton-Charlemagne was my white wine of the night, and very close to my overall wine of the night. It had a wonderful aroma that deepened and strengthen all night long. Wonderful balance, light mineral notes, long, long finish. Delicious all by itself, and with tastes of several other dishes. [Somehow our sommelier decided I deserved another half glass of this wonderful wine -- bless her and all of her kind!] 5*.
The 1979 Corton-Charlemagne showed extraordinary bottle variation -- I wondered if the first bottle might have been affected by cork. There was certainly nothing home at first, and although the wine improved a bit with swirling and time, it never rose beyond the ordinary -- 2*. The second bottle -- at least the two ounces from the second bottle -- was much more interesting with good fruit, a lovely earthy note, good acidity, good length -- but somehow it reminded me of the first sample and I never cottoned to it. 4*.
The Burgers and our sommelier emphasized that Burgundy lovers simply have to learn to live with bottle variation; they admitted the wine might have had undetectable, but active, levels of TCA, but that even if TCA wasn't at work, significant bottle variation was a hallmark of Burgundy wines, even at the very highest levels. The Foodie and I grimaced at this news.
[One Johannes note: the advance literature and the menu promised the 1986; the wine brochure and the wine label delivered the 1985. I had a bit of fun pulling Johannes' chain about the missing wine to the delight of the Burgers. Johannes and I then reminisced about a tasting at Montrachet a few years ago where both bottles of the star of the show -- an older Romanee Conti -- were both corked -- not a taste of greatness for anyone. Of course, the participation fee was based in large measure on that wine, and Daniel couldn't reasonably be expected to open a third bottle, even if one was available. The Burgers were very sympathetic to us both -- more so to Daniel than to me I thought -- but both emphasized that Burgundy lovers simply have to live with the possibility that an expensive bottle of Burgundy might be spoiled by cork. The Foodie and I grimaced at this "news" as well.]
Panchetta Wrapped Yellowfin Tuna
Super Green Spinach, Glazed Celery, Truffle Sauce
Beaune "Clos des Ursules" 1978
Beaune "Clos des Ursules" 1959
This dish was an absolute triumph; the food was superb alone, the 1978 Clos des Ursules was superb alone, but together they were almost miraculous. At the most basic, the perfectly cooked tuna -- quite rare -- and the spinach made a fascinating combination of acidity and richness with attractive mouth feel, the celery notes added freshness, the truffles earthen and woody notes -- and the red wine looked beautiful against the red of the tuna and contained all of the elements of the food. Absolutely perfect, sublime dining -- the best food and wine match I've ever enjoyed.
The 1978 Clos des Ursules struck me as an absolutely perfect wine to drink with food -- it was complex and fascinating in its own right, but it seemed leap out of the glass in its eagerness to make the food -- and itself -- taste better. It showed a wonderful brightness for a 30 year old wine; the Burgers told me it was "classic" -- exactly what I should find in a great 1978. A strong contender for my wine of the night -- wonderful with this dish. 5*.
The 1959 Clos des Ursules was oxidized and tarry in the beginning, although it slowly got better. Johannes said it had been decanted for an hour and half, but that it needed much more time to open. Lardière apologized for the wine. He said that it needed five or six hours to open, and gave a long, complex discussion about how wines generally opened. [I may have misunderstood his word, but I thought he said that the "proteins" had to be driven off before a wine can show well; both Burgers thought he use the word "protein" as well.] After an hour the wine had gained a bit of interest, showing some fruit and complexity, but there was never anything really rewarding. 2* as we tasted it.
[The Foodie and I agreed I could make this dish -- spinach and tuna are dead easy with perfect ingredients, and she taught me how to make the celery and the truffle sauce on the fly. We puzzled over the "Super Green Spinach" -- the spinach did have an intense green hue -- but as far as I've been able to learn, "Super Green Spinach" is a Boulud affectation. I'll have to check out his cookbooks before attempting the dish -- but I'm sure any excellent spinach/tuna combo will be brilliant without learning that detail. We both agreed we were tempted to lick the plate clean -- but probably hadn't had enough to drink yet.]
Roasted "Four Story Hill Farm" Guinea Hen
Foie Gras, Trumpet Royale, Vegetable Cocotte
Gevrey Chambertin "Clos St. Jacques" 1993
Gevrey Chambertin "Clos St. Jacques" 1989
The vegetables in this dish were delicious, perfectly cooked and melded together beautifully. I nibbled at the hen, and tasted the foie gras. The Foodie scoured the platter clean. We agreed not to discuss any ethical issues involved.
The 1993 Clos St. Jacques was a wonderful wine with food, much like the Clos des Ursules 1978. It seemed perfectly matched, and gained and conferred, complexity and interest. Wonderful aroma and taste, perfect balance, long complex finish. Delicious wine. 5*.
The 1989 Clos St. Jacques was an intellectual's wine. It didn't really do much for the food -- it was much more fun to sip and try to work out the details of the various layers of aromas and taste. Brooding, but opened up and evolved beautifully for an hour in the glass. A great wine. 5*.
Chef's Selection of Artisanal Cheeses
St. Nectaire, Pleasant Ridge, Valcherin du Jura
Musigny 1985
Delicate aromas of violets and berries, excellent tastes of fruits and spice with earth and loamy notes, great balance, lovely, lovely wine. The Musigny 1985 was my wine of the tasting by a whisker over the Corton-Charlemagne 1985. Delicious with each of the three very different cheeses. Delicious on its own. Delicious. 5*.
Montrachet 1904
This wine stood alone, of course. Johannes and Lardière exchanged some clever quips about who had made the wine and who had enjoyed more bottles. At the end, though, they both agreed that a wine like this really needs to be savored over a long time, more hours than we could spare. I would have liked to take it home and study it -- after so many fine wines and foods, I'm not sure I got all of what it had to offer. The fruit was remarkable -- honey, apricots and some dried fruit notes, good acidity but excellent balance, long, long finish, a bit of oxidation. It gave the impression that it could last another hundred years -- remarkable. 5*.
Clive Coates describes a glass of the Montrachet 1904 much more eloquently and accurately than I can: in his book Côte D'Or: A Celebration of the Great Wines of Burgundy [Published 1997 University of California Press]: "The colour of an old fino -- or a Serical. Rich and fat on the nose and still very much alive. There is honey here, as well as nuts. Even a touch of botrytis. Good acidtiy too. Full and concentrated, quite powerful, and I would judge, also quite alcoholic. On the palate the fruit has dried just a little, but there is no decay. The wine is still rich and persistent. But it has lost just a little of its sweetness. A full vintage in the style of 1976 or 1983. Fine. Held up well in the glass though it became a little bitter." Coates describes very well what I saw and tasted with one exception -- no bitterness appeared during the hour I spent sipping this wine. If only I had the nerve, I would have taken my glass home -- and return it when next Janet and I enjoy another meal at Daniel.
Vanilla Roasted Pear, Lady Gray Manger, Fresh Pear Sauce
A Daniel triumph -- delicate and delicious.
Petits Four and Chocolates
A very nice selection, and I was able to repay many of the Foodie's courtesies. She didn't know that Daniel gives patrons a doggie bag for this course -- she was delighted to take home a sampling for her husband and their two kids.
***
All in all, a delightful evening, despite my initial concerns. Perhaps someday I'll become a Burger, or even a Foodie.
Regards, Bob
Notes:
The following notes are consolidated from the
http://www.kobrandwine.com/ website and from the brochure distributed at the dinner designed to make notes.
Comtes de Champagne, Blanc de Blancs
Taittinger, Brut Vintage, 1998.
Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs was created to commemorate Thibaud IV, Comte de Champagne, who planted the first Chardonnay vines in France in the 13th century. First released in 1957 with the 1952 vintage, it is produced exclusively from the delicate first pressing of costly Chardonnay grapes grown to greatest perfection in the vineyards of the communes of the Côte des Blancs, named for the suitability of its microclimates to that vine variety. Champagne Taittinger's extensive vineyard holdings of 600 acres include several parcels in the 100 percent-rated villages of Avize, Cramant, Chouilly and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger in the Côte des Blancs, and assure the consistent supply from year to year of the most exceptional Chardonnay grapes available.
Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs is elaborated and brought to maturity in the 13th century chalk cellars once the property of the Abbey of Saint Nicaise, where each step of the méthode champenoise is performed traditionally. Following harvest, the grapes are pressed immediately in press houses located among the vineyards, yielding a first pressing, referred to as the "cuvée," which is followed by two more pressings, referred to as the first and second "tailles." The greater part of the juice, and that of the finest quality, is extracted in the "cuvée;" neither of the "tailles" are used in Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs. In all, no more than 100 litres (approximately 26 gallons) of juice per 160 kilograms (approximately 350 pounds) of fruit may be extracted from the combined three pressings. The must is then transported to the vinification facility, where a cool fermentation takes place under temperature controlled conditions. Following this, a small portion of the wine, usually approximating five percent, is matured for a few months in small, 225-litre, new oak casks. Blending takes place in the early spring, followed by a slow secondary fermentation at 45 to 50 F in Taittinger's cool cellars from which the wine acquires complexity and the fine, pinpoint bubbles characteristic of its sparkle. Prior to dégorgement, Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs is aged four to six years, twice the legal minimum for vintage champagne, to fully capture the subtle bouquet, complexity and body of the Chardonnay grape.
This superb Champagne, produced only in years exceptional enough to declare a vintage, is appropriately presented in an antique-style bottle of XVIIIth century design. Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs is the ultimate expression of the Taittinger style, a Champagne of great refinement, elegance and delicacy. The clean, aristocratic Chardonnay fragrance is offset by warm, toasty nuances, which carry onto a palate of finely- balanced, generous white fruit flavors underscored by a fine, crisp acidity and subtle mineral notes. The refined, toasty finish is lasting and complex.
Criot-Bâtard-Montracht 2002 Grand Cru.
100% Chardonnay. Maximum yield: 40 hl/ha (180 cases/acre); Minium alcohol 12%; Minimum sugar: 204 Grams.
At the summit of the slope where the communes of Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet converge is a cluster of vineyards comprised of five of the six greatest white wine microclimates of Burgundy. All share the name of the greatest among them, Le Montrachet, which like Bâtard-Montrachet, lies partly in Puligny and partly in Chassagne. Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet and Chevalier-Montrachet lie within Puligny; Criots- Bâtard Montrachet lies within Chassagne. The collective surface area of these grands crus totals only 80 acres.
Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet flanks Bâtard-Montrachet along its southern border, and is the only grand cru lying entirely within Chassagne-Montrachet. Criots is also the smallest of the five grands crus, occupying 3.9 acres which yield only 50 hectolitres (550 cases) of wine in an average year.
Legend has it that during the crusades, the son (Le Chevalier) of the Lord of Montrachet Castle left for the Holy Land, and in his absence his father began to frequent the Clos des Pucelles, where the young maidens (Les Demoiselles) of the area often gathered to amuse themselves. Temptation prevailed, and nine months later the old lord was again a father. His son, killed in battle, never returned. The baby was welcomed at the castle as heir with cries of "Bienvenu le Bâtard!" ("Welcome to the Bastard!"), but the old lord, unable to bear his crying, protested with "A crio le Bâtard!" ("The Bastard is crying!"). The vineyards were later named in their memory.
As charming as this story is, the name "Criots" in fact is derived from a very old root which in turn gave rise to the two words "crag" and "craie" ("chalk"). Separated by a little shelf from Bâtard-Montrachet, its soils are comparatively paler and stonier, and produce a wine of greater delicacy and finesse than Bâtard-Montrachet. In vintages providing sufficient quality and quantity of fruit, Maison Louis Jadot vinifies an extremely limited quantity of Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet in primarily new oak casks to evoke the rich, supple fruit, alluring complexity and sublime elegance of this great wine. Its fragrant bouquet, marked by subtle notes of toast, is recalled in the lingering finish.
Corton-Charlemagne, Louis Jadot-Burgundy, Grand Cru, Domaine des Héritiers 1985 and 1979.
Louis Jadot
Estate Bottled, 100% Chardonnay, Maximum yield 40 hl/ha (180 cs/acre), minimum alcohol 12%, minimu sugar 204 Grams.
The commune of Aloxe-Corton, located above Pernand-Vergelesses at the northern end of the Côte de Beaune, has the unusual distinction of having over half its area covered in grand cru vineyards. These occupy 298 acres divided among 19 climats which take the Corton grand cru appellation for red wines; five among these, totalling 120 acres, take the Corton-Charlemagne grand cru appellation for white wines as well as the Corton grand cru appellation for red wines. Aloxe-Corton's remaining 294 acres include nine premiers crus, covering 72 acres, and 222 acres ranked for village wines. Production of these latter vineyards is over 99 percent in red wines. Average annual production is 4,320 hectolitres (48,000 cases).
The history of Aloxe-Corton is not complete without the contribution of the Emperor Charlemagne. It is known that he owned vines on the hillside above Aloxe, which, in 775, at age 33, he bequeathed to the Abbey of Saulieu in recompense for the destruction of their monastery by the Saracens. At this point in history, most of the vineyards were in red vines, and it is supposedly due to Charlemagne's wife that the first white vines were planted. In his latter years, Charlemagne's chin was graced by a luxuriant white beard. His advanced age did not dampen his appreciation of fine dining; but, invariably, when he drank, drips found their way to his beard. His wife, scandalized by the little red hairs, made such an issue of his un-regal appearance that Charlemagne finally agreed to replace the red vines with white. So the great white wine named for him was born.
The grand cru of Le Charlemagne covers 42 acres comprised of two parcels stretching from the summit down to mid-slope adjacent to Corton-Pougets on the Aloxe-Corton hillside. It is among the five vineyards of the commune in which the variegated soils, alternating between chalk and iron-rich marl, produce both Corton and Corton-Charlemagne. Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot is proprietor of an exceptional, 4.94-acre parcel of vines adjacent to Les Pougets exposed directly to the south. Purchased in 1914, this vineyard yields a Corton-Charlemagne for which Jadot is famous, considered to be the benchmark by by which Corton-Charlemagne is judged. A wine of rare textural elegance and depth, its aristocratic bouquet and luscious full-fruit complexity are completed by discreet nuances of honey, cinnamon and oak, culminating in an intense, lasting finish.
Beaune-Clos des Ursules, 1978 and 1959.
Louis Jadot-Burgundy, Monopole, Vignes Franches Premier Cru Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot Estate Bottled, 100% Pinot Noir, Maximum yield 40 hl/ha (180 cs/acre), Minimum alcohol 11%, minimum sugar 198 Grams.
The picturesque city of Beaune has since the 14th century been the commercial pulse of the Burgundian wine trade. Its vineyards, the most extensive of the Côte de Beaune, cover 1,111 acres between Savigny, to the north, and Pommard, to the south. There are no grand cru vineyards in the commune of Beaune, yet its 36 premier cru vineyards occupy 795 acres, over double the 317 acres under the Beaune village appellation. Vineyards under the Côte de Beaune-Villages appellation constitute a further 128 acres. The Beaune and Beaune premier cru vineyards are ranked as such for both red and white wines, yet the latter account for only 4.5 percent of the average annual production of 11,929 hectolitres (137,200 cases).
The Vignes Franches climat is situated in mid-slope near the southern end of the commune flanked by Les Boucherottes and Les Chouacheux, below it; and by the Clos des Mouches and Les Aigrots, above it. Its three parcels cover just over 24 acres. Well before the French Revolution this vineyard was a gift of the Province of Burgundy to a loyal group of subjects in gratitude for their service to the crown. The land was specially exempt from all duties; hence the name "franches," or free of taxes. Later, a portion of the Vignes Franches was donated to the convent of Saint-Ursule, a teaching order established in Beaune in 1626. This portion was later walled, and has since borne the name "Clos des Ursules."
The Clos des Ursules is a 6.8-acre enclave purchased by Louis Henry Denis Jadot in 1826, which has remained a solely-owned property of the Jadot family ever since. It is the jewel of the Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot portfolio, producing a wine of consistent excellence which, for the characteristic delicacy and suppleness of Vignes Franches, shows striking tannin and dimension. Full, firm and rich in ripe-berry flavors, its fine, slightly earthy bouquet and long, lush finish converge in a wine perfectly balancing elegance and power.
Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint Jacques 1993 and 1989.
Louis Jadot-Burgundy Domaine Louis Jadot, Estate Bottled, 100% Pinot Noir, Maximum yiedl 40 hl/ha (180 cs/acre) minimum alcohol 11%, minimum sugar 196 Grams.
Gevrey-Chambertin is the northernmost of the great communes of the Côte de Nuits; it covers 1,315.75 acres and produces an average 16,411 hectolitres (182,351 cases) of wine annually, all of which is red. There are 26 premiers crus in Gevrey occupying a total of 211 acres, and eight grands crus lying on a contiguous strip of 215 acres. The remaining 889 acres, 125 of which lie in the adjoining commune of Brochon, produce the village wines of Gevrey-Chambertin.
The village of Gevrey is very old; in 630 it still bore the Latin name "Gibriacus," a derivative of "grabos." The meaning of this word is unclear, but seems to be related to "beard", either a bearded man or animal, i.e., a goat. "Chambertin", from "Campus Bertini", later "Champ de Bertin", or "Bertin's field", immortalizes the peasant who first planted this greatest vineyard of the commune. In 1847, the commune of Gevrey became Gevrey- Chambertin by decree of King Louis-Philippe.
Half of the premiers crus of Gevrey-Chambertin lie scattered around the perimeter of the grands crus; the other half occupy a steep, southeast-facing slope to the north, and are superior to the former by virtue of their exposition and calcareous clay soils. The Clos Saint-Jacques, a 17-acre vineyard in the center of the slope, is generally considered to be one of the two finest premiers crus of Gevrey.
Domaine Louis Jadot is proprietor of 2.47 acres in this superb climat acquired in 1985 through the purchase of the majority of the holdings of Domaine Clair Daü, and controls another 1.24 acres through a long-term contract. It produces a wine approaching grand cru quality, similar in character and quality to that of Le Chambertin, with a fine, elegant bouquet, vigorous, full-bodied fruit complexity, and a structure of extreme refinement and breed.
Le Musigny 1985 Grand Cru.
Louis Jadot-Burgundy, Domaine Louis Jadot, Estate Bottled, 100% Pinot Noir, maximum yeild 35 hl/ha (157 cs/acre), minimum alcohol 11.5%, minimum sugar 207 Grams.
The commune of Chambolle-Musigny lies just north of Vougeot and south of Morey-Saint-Denis on two steep slopes at either end of the commune which rise above the village of Chambolle in the valley between them. Its vineyards occupy 423 acres, 223 of which produce village wines, and an additional 150 acres divided among 24 premiers crus. The remaining 40 acres are in the commune's two grands crus: Le Musigny, at the southern extremity, and Bonnes-Mares, at the northern extremity, a small part of which spills into Morey- Saint-Denis. Of Chambolle-Musigny's annual average production of 5,404 hectolitres (60,044 cases) of wine, all but seven are red; the 900-odd bottles of white are exclusively from the minuscule grand cru vineyard of Le Musigny Blanc.
The commune of Chambolle and its village are transversed by the Little River Grône, ordinarily a peaceful body of water. But for centuries, occasional downpours have transformed it into a savage, torrential flood submerging streets and cellars. The persistence of this behavior is evidenced by the Latin name "Campus Ebulliens," or "boiling field," from which by 1110 "Cambola," and later "Chambolle," evolved. It was only planted in vines, during the 1200s, by the monks of Vougeot.
Le Musigny is the oldest vineyard of Chambolle, originally a property of the Musigné family, who, during the Middle Ages, were heavily involved with the government of The Duchy of Burgundy. Le Musigny is an elongated climat at the southern end of Chambolle covering 26 acres in four parcels: two in La Combe d'Orveau, totalling 1.5 acres; 10.5 in Les Petits Musigny; and 14.5, in Le Musigny proper. The unusual calcareous soils of Chambolle are especially fine in the Musigny vineyard, and produce a magnificent wine of greater elegance than any of the Côte d'Or. Domaine Louis Jadot is proprietor of .4 acres in Le Musigny acquired in 1985 through the purchase of Domaine Clair Daü. This superb parcel produces a quintessential Musigny, with the slightly floral, violet-scented bouquet and raspberry flavors characteristic of the wine. Ethereally delicate and feminine, yet with a firm structure, it shows a silky texture and elegant fruit complexity of exceptional finesse.
Le Montrachet Grand Cru 1904
Louis Jadot-Burgundy, 100% Chardonnay, maximum yield 40 hl/ha (180 cs/acre), minimum alcohol 12%, minimum sugar 204 Grams.
At the summit of the slope where the communes of Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet converge is a cluster of vineyards comprised of five of the six greatest white wine microclimates of Burgundy. They all share the name of the greatest among them, Le Montrachet, which like Bâtard-Montrachet, lies partly in Puligny and partly in Chassagne. Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet and Chevalier-Montrachet lie within Puligny; Criots-Bâtard Montrachet lies within Chassagne. The collective surface area of these grands crus totals only 80 acres.
The Le Montrachet vineyard lies nearly at the crest of its slope, occupying just under 10 acres on each side of the border dividing Puligny and Chassagne. Its name "Mont Rachat", from the Latin "Mons Rachisensis," means literally a "bald hilltop," and the soil is so poor and stony that it does not even support underbrush. The subsoil, however, is extremely chalky, perfectly drained, and with a south-south-eastern exposition that catches the sun's rays from dawn to dusk. These factors contribute to an exceptional level of organic complexity, concentration and maturity in the fruit.
For the three centuries preceding the French Revolution, nearly all of Le Montrachet belonged to the Clermond-Montoizon family; the present vineyard name dates from 1482. Since the end of the 1700s, Le Montrachet has become divided among a dozen or so proprietors: the largest solely-owned parcel consists of approximately five acres, but most are far smaller. The annual production of 30,000 bottles (2,500 cases) in fact averages only three-quarters of the legal maximum, and for its scarcity as well as for its rare opulence, Le Montrachet is justifiably one of the most costly and sought-after wines in the world.
Maison Louis Jadot practices a traditional vinification, primarily in new oak casks, to underscore and highlight the unique qualities inherent in the fruit of this great vineyard. Le Montrachet is rarely described in any but superlative terms. Its incomparable depth, intense fruit elegance, and layers of complex, textural richness, reflected in a sublime bouquet reminiscent of honey and toast, culminate in a finish of haunting persistence.
Last edited by Bob Ross on Sat Feb 10, 2007 3:49 pm, edited 4 times in total.
