I'm not very up-to-date with my knowledge of "modern" Rioja, of the sort which routinely earns 95+ Parker points, but here are some more classical producers whose Rioja I like -
Contino, a single vineyard owned, I think, by CVNE; classed by some as "modern".
Lopez Heredia
La Rioja Alta
Hermanos Peciña
The Eguren family and especially its Sierra Cantabria range
I have no idea if these people are as well organised for visitors as I understand that Riscal is. I suspect that the best organised of those I have named is likely to be the Eguren family which has a wide range both in the more classical vein (Reserva and Gran Reserva) and also some cuvées which are modern to varying degrees like San Vicente, El Bosque, Amancio......
https://www.sierracantabria.com/en/ .
If I were visiting the region, I would try to see at least one of these.