by Patchen Markell » Tue Sep 10, 2019 8:24 am
One of the summer's more interesting pink wines, for us, was the Monje 2018 Tenerife Rosado "Bibiana" from the Canary Islands. It's lurid hot pink and looks like it's going to taste like Kool-Aid, and it's definitely fruitier than the pale, herbaceous Provençal rosés we usually prefer, but it combines this rich fruit with briny complexity and turns out to be dry on the palate, making it an exceptionally good food wine. Around $20.
Offered a good deal ($24/btl) on the Frank Cornelissen 2017 IGP Terre Siciliane Red Wine "Susucaru" (100% Nerello Mascalese), I jumped on a case, and it hasn't disappointed. Pale purple-red and totally gulpable, with that seductive combination of a delicately floral entry and a dark, structured finish that makes Nerello, for me, the enticing and mysterious goth cousin of Pinot or Gamay.
Jonesing for good Zinfandel in a market that isn't exactly thick with options, I picked up a Limerick Lane 2017 Russian River Valley Zinfandel, Estate Grown. (Okay, there were a couple of good options; there was some Bedrock, some Carlisle, and some Day, too; I picked the lowest ABV at 14.8%.) Young but delicious. This is big yet just restrained enough in style, with saturated dark berry fruit structured by sufficient acidity as well as spice and bramble, apparently aged in neutral oak; I thought I detected a little more overt wood influence than that, but it certainly wasn't plankish. Long and vivid. I'd happily hold some of this. $42.
cheers, Patchen