What wine excites you right now?

[David M. Bueker]

I was in a bit of a rut a little while back. Nothing excited me.

A bottle of Dirty & Rowdy Antle Vineyard Mourvedre pulled me out of the funk. The Matthiasson Red Wine I posted a note on yesterday actually felt joyful - a Bordeaux blend wine joyful!

What's lighting your vinous fire these days?

[Robin Garr]

Two exceptional Beaujolais from Kermit Lynch lighted my fire in recent weeks: Domaine Diochon 2017 Moulin-à-Vent Cuvée Vieilles Vignes, and Anna Asmaquer 2016 Domaine de la Prébrende Beaujolais Vielles Vignes. To be honest, they don’t taste much like Beaujolais, especially the Diochon. They taste like decent young Burgs. Yeah, that was exciting.

[David M. Bueker]

Diochon is really good.

I am always on the look out for Muscadet and am/have enjoyed some 2012 Chereau-Carre. I noticed the other day some 2017 Ramee is in town so am set for a nice Melon this weekend.

To be honest, they don’t taste much like Beaujolais, especially the Diochon. They taste like decent young Burgs. Yeah, that was exciting.

Interesting. I haven't had Diochon in a while, but while I often have Beaujolais wines that hit many of the same notes as Burgundy (fresh, light, juicy, fragrant), I can't say I've ever had one that I thought tasted like Burgundy.

In recent years I've zeroed in on the same set of regions and producers that I want to follow. I enjoy it all, but not sure I would describe it as a trend that excites me right now.

Instead, the big exciting trend for me has been getting more into spirits, and in particular cognac. Curious what others think, but as a wine lover, cognac is a more recognizable spirit because it is made from grapes. At least it feels that way in my mouth compared to something like scotch.

Plus, of course the ability to get such fine products for less than $200 and then enjoy them over a much longer period of time than a bottle of wine. Right now working my way through a lovely bottle of Jean Fillioux Tres Vieux XO Extra, such lovely long stuff.

I guess I should have added "orange" wine too. Some interesting wines downtown, mainly from Georgia.

[Robin Garr]

Interesting. I haven't had Diochon in a while, but while I often have Beaujolais wines that hit many of the same notes as Burgundy (fresh, light, juicy, fragrant), I can't say I've ever had one that I thought tasted like Burgundy.

Maybe I'm being too easy. But remember too, that to the extent I drink Burgundy, it's at the Bourgogne Pinot Noir or, rarely, village wine level. We're not talking about the top-shelf stuff here.

[Jenise]

Easy one to answer: old CA pinots. My last trip to California included our hosts opening a lot of older pinots. Some, though passively stored, really amazed. So I've been buying a few here and there. A 2002 Gloria Ferrer SV last night delighted beyond words. And it wasn't even tertiary, 17 years old and there was still some primary fruit in amongst the secondary stuff. Just loved it, and it's souring me for the flavors of young wines. "Not ready yet" are words heard a lot around here.

[David M. Bueker]

Interesting Jenise. I have a lot of very high quality California Pinot in the cellar, so some of it is sure to get serious age.

Also interesting to hear about your experiences with Cognac Rahsaan. I have essentially zero experience with that spirit. I tend towards Bourbon and Scotch for my distilled drinks.

I'd say the white wines from Alto Adige in northern Italy and Syrah from Wash. state (especially those with viognier added).

Interesting. I haven't had Diochon in a while, but while I often have Beaujolais wines that hit many of the same notes as Burgundy (fresh, light, juicy, fragrant), I can't say I've ever had one that I thought tasted like Burgundy.

Maybe I'm being too easy. But remember too, that to the extent I drink Burgundy, it's at the Bourgogne Pinot Noir or, rarely, village wine level. We're not talking about the top-shelf stuff here.

Well maybe I'm being too picky! There are obviously many similarities. But I usually find an extra dimension of finesse to the structure of Burgundy, even at the village level. That doesn't always work to Burgundy's advantage, because sometimes the young wines can be too staid/stolid, whereas the comparative advantage of Beaujolais is that looser feel.

Interestingly, I actually had a Burgundy last weekend that *almost* reminded me of Beaujolais. The 2017 Guillemot Savigny VV. Bright juicy and fresh. But, at the end, it did sneak in with just enough fine-grained texture to remind me of its origins. (Or at least that's what I told myself)

Also interesting to hear about your experiences with Cognac Rahsaan. I have essentially zero experience with that spirit. I tend towards Bourbon and Scotch for my distilled drinks.

I'm still a relative newbie with all the spirits. One downside to the longer-lasting bottles is that it takes longer to get broader exposure!

But, even acknowledging that there are great products being made in all kinds of traditions, there does seem to be something special about the fermentation of grapes (to return to old wine vs. beer debates). The textures and the flavors of cognac have the layers and the complexity that are easier for my wine-loving palate to appreciate.

But, of course there are lots of ways to consume deliciousness! All of these spirits have fans for a reason.

In recent years I've zeroed in on the same set of regions and producers that I want to follow. I enjoy it all, but not sure I would describe it as a trend that excites me right now.

Instead, the big exciting trend for me has been getting more into spirits, and in particular cognac. Curious what others think, but as a wine lover, cognac is a more recognizable spirit because it is made from grapes. At least it feels that way in my mouth compared to something like scotch.

Plus, of course the ability to get such fine products for less than $200 and then enjoy them over a much longer period of time than a bottle of wine. Right now working my way through a lovely bottle of Jean Fillioux Tres Vieux XO Extra, such lovely long stuff.

Hi Rahsaan, I too get a lot of satisfaction out of cognac, provided that it avoids that caramelised taste which I find in a lot of "luxury" bottles. I go with quite small producers like Drouet & fils, Paul Giraud. I was very disappointed when a nearby caviste switched from Paul Giraud to a more "luxury" producer.

I similarly enjoy Armagnac and Calvados, though the same trap of the "luxury" caramelised taste can be found here too. I'm less keen on whisky other than Islay where the special iodine type flavour masks an underlying coarseness which I find in most other malts.

Another spirit type which I go for is white dry fruit brandy (eaux de vie blanches or alcools blancs) like framboise, poire, prune sauvage..... Many of the best come from Alsace. Most are better when served cool IMO and this makes them particularly suitable in summer months when the ambient temperature emphasises the alcohol and IMO unbalances cognac, calvados, etc.

As for wines, when I survey my CT ratings over 93, I find that N.Rhône (Voge, Jamet and J-L Chave) and Tuscany (Fèlsina and Fontodi) have provided most in 2019 so far. Recently a rare Cabernet franc 1998 from Vignamaggio in Chianti country was delightful. However nothing new in that. When it comes to unfamiliar regions, I intend to explore both the Jura and Savoie more deeply using Wink Lorch's books as a guide.

Yes, the ‘luxury’ confections are to be avoided by our types. But that’s pretty easy. The artisanal producers may not be in every shop but they are out there are and available, just like wine.

Also a big fan of eaux de vie for the pure fruit expression. Mostly drink them (Austrian versions) when visiting family in Germany but do not buy at home because they don’t seem as complex or engaging as cognac. Maybe one day! So much out there...

On a Rhone kick right now....

I guess I should have added "orange" wine too. Some interesting wines downtown, mainly from Georgia.

Similar here, except I would put it the other way round: artisanal qvevri Georgian wines, many of which are orange. To be honest there are quite a few duds, but the good ones make it worthwhile. I'm usually relatively unaffected by the stories attached to wines (often by marketing people one suspects), but total production volumes of a few thousand litres using a technology going back millennia is quite a hook for me.

The New Hampshire State Liquor Store is having a clearance sale on Bonny Doon's A Proper Claret. As one would expect from a Randall Grahm wine, the focus is on finesse rather than gobs of hedonistic fruit.

-Paul W.