2018 Massican Chardonnay Hyde Vineyards - USA, California, Napa Valley (7/25/2019)
From vines planted in 1992, the 2018 Massican Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay is a direct window into grape and place. Dan Petroski handles the grapes a little bit differently than in some other Hyde chardonnays, with larger oak barrels (300 liter versus 225 liter), made with less aggressive wood that sees a lighter toast than sometimes used for Chardonnay. The wine does not go through malolactic fermentation, so it has a laser-like focus, with fresh, crisp fruit tones, and a mouthwatering, salty palate presence. The oak is not noticeable, expect for a bit of richness on the finish. It’s interesting to contrast this rendition of Hyde with something such as David Ramey’s version, which does go through malolactic and sees a more typical oak regimen. The Massican is the better wine for summer, and also for more basic preparations (someone bring me a plate of oysters), whereas the Ramey would suit a richer prep. I love the contrasts, and am happy to own both. The 2018 Massican has the depth for a number of years in the cellar, and that should cause it to unfold a bit, but it’s still a great pleasure to drink now.