WTN: Winners and Losers

[Jenise]

The Winners:

2016 Chateau Ste. Michelle Cabernet Sauvignon Block 9 Wahluke Slope
Something laudably different in the CSM stable, a limited edition club release: a stoic, non-fruit-forward style of balanced, ageable cabernet that shows the savory side of the grape without the signature sweet vanilla oak. [applause]

2010 Alleromb Winery Syrah Scarline Vineyard Columbia Valley
Day one: tight, muted. Recorked.
Day two: stunning aromatic dark fruits, roasted meat, garrique. Secondary development in early stages with a bit of leather. Elegantly concentrated and finessed; a serious syrah that could pass for a Northern Rhone and with tannins worthy of another 5 to 10 years of cellaring. I'd never heard of this producer before encountering this wine on offer from Full Pull for a third of it's original asking price. Deserves 2-3 times that.

2013 Gamache Vintners Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley
Tasted last night with Jessica Gamache. I'm amazed at the two bad reviews here--no idea what happened but those had to be flawed bottles as this wine is bright and very much alive. Cassis and raspberry fruit, and on the leaner side in a way that could pass in a blind tasting for Loire. Enjoyed it so much I ordered a few bottles.

2013 Gamache Vintners Merlot Columbia Valley
Spot-on traditional merlot with blackberry fruit, spice, coffee and dark chocolate. No overt oak, nice tannins, elegant finish. This would be a perfect poster child for an anti-Miles campaign to prove the value of this grape as a stand-alone variety. Drink now thru 2023.

2017 Gamache Vintners Sauvignon Blanc Horse Heaven Hills
Very classic/traditional, grapefruit and melon with a touch of bay leaf. Elegant mouthfeel, dry crisp finish. Excellent. I ordered six.


The losers:

2018 Bayernmoor Columbia Valley Red Blend
Made by Brian Carter. Orange-pink. Fat and low acid watermelon and strawberry fruit, finishes sweet.

2017 Bayernmoor Chardonnay Columbia Valley
Made by Brian Carter. Fat and low acid texture with monochromatic flavors and wallop of RS on the finish. PASS.


The somewhere in betweens:

2014 Beringer Vineyards Pinot Noir Benoist Ranch Napa Valley
A distributor has been dumping this around town with a supposedly $70 MSRP, though he must be wholesaling it around $7 as it's showing up on shelves at $15. Curious, I bit. Surprisingly developed; basically fully mature with very soft texture--no tannins left to speak of. Quite decent if you like mature wine (I do) and only $15 to spend, but it has no future.

2010 Tua Rita Perlato del Bosco Toscana IGT Sangiovese Blend, Sangiovese
A much fresher bottle than the last one we opened a month ago, and it got better the longer it was open--but not much structure left. Drink sooner than later.

Last time I was out in Napa we toured through Beringer. The person giving our tour started telling us about how their Pinot is so fruit driven because of the clones the use. He then went on to tell us it was the same clone that Beaujolais is made from and I about walked out.

I haven't tried Gamache before, but now I want to hunt some down to try...

[Jenise]

Last time I was out in Napa we toured through Beringer. The person giving our tour started telling us about how their Pinot is so fruit driven because of the clones the use. He then went on to tell us it was the same clone that Beaujolais is made from and I about walked out.

I haven't tried Gamache before, but now I want to hunt some down to try...

Beringer's not a winery any more, it's a wine factory. They hire those labs that 'design' flavor/color and the additives needed to achieve them. I don't know what from them I'd trust any more. For instance, once a great wine, now the Knights Valley cab is the new Hearty Burgundy--no longer a vineyard or a place, just a brand name and every vintage is identical thanks to modern science. I only bought this one because I was curious and it was cheap.

The Gamaches were very nice, and what was good about them was almost more what wasn't bad about them. They're not goopy, overoaked, high alcohol or extracted which as you know we see a lot of here. You might almost call them sensible, especially for the prices which were probably especially advantageous due to the vintages like '13 on the reds at likely blow-out prices. I believe I saw this morning that the two reds run $30 and $35 where the restaurant only charged $18 and $22. I bought both because I liked them but even more because I want to be an appreciative customer to a struggling restaurant.

[David M. Bueker]

The top end Beringer Cabernet program is still really good.

Other than that...bleh.