Last night my favorite wine drinking buddy and I had a particularly grand evening. This was an extremely strong lineup of wines! I first had the 1996 d'Yquem the day of my Ph.D. hooding, and this bottle was set aside for when I got tenure. Based on this, I am now planning to save my last one for when I retire.
We also tried a Caramel Praline Pecan cheesecake from the Wichita Cheesecake Company, which is the best cheesecake I have ever had, and was a worthy match to the two phenomenal, high pedigree dessert wines we had. The pairing of this cheesecake and the Kracher TBA was probably the most phenomenal food-wine match I have ever had; that was a mind blowing moment, a 100pt experience (and appropriately, an arrangement of Faure's "In Paradisum" was playing in the background at the time). Their cheesecakes are not cheap, but based on this one, they are in a class of their own, and worth every penny.
Von Winning, Riesling, Forster Ungeheuer Grosses Gewachs, Pfalz 2015
My first experience with a Grosses Gewachs. Light golden yellow with hints of green. Somewhat shy but outstanding nose with a great sense of depth and substance; yellow flowers, dried pear, lemon, honey, tons of salty mineral, and lots of fresh ground white pepper that gets into your nose and throat; petrol notes are waiting in the wings; grows and grows with air. On the palate, generous lychee with loads of dried pear and prominent lemon curd, generous, rich, floral honey, and generous apricots toward the finish, all with tons of salty, spicy mineral and white pepper; long finish of nectar, honey, mineral, and spice. Huge body, driven by big lemon acidity, with almost savory sweet-tartness, all of which balances the impressively ripe substance; has all the richness and viscosity you would expect from something like spatlese-level ripeness (although it is a “mere” Qualitatswien). Like the other 2015s I’ve had, this presents a high end balance between big acid, ripeness, and muscular substance; the body, savory substance, and richness of this are extremely impressive. Such an incredibly satisfying and complete Riesling. 10 to 15 years ahead, possibly 20. 4 Stars [7/6/19]
Jean Biecher & Fils, Riesling, Pfersigberg Grand Cru, Alsace 2017
My first experience with a Alsace Grand Cru Riesling. Very nice color, light golden yellow. Awesome nose of white flowers, honey, dried pineapple, dried pears, apricot, even some raspberry, vanilla custard, and slate, with petrol coming through after an hour; captivating, great complexity and depth, wow! On the palate, tropical fruits, passion fruit and pineapple, lemon, pear, custard, some apricot, some fig, and a touch of honey, with slatey mineral, and spice; great length on the spicy, honey-laden, nectary finish, with some lychee. Full bodied, with excellent intensity, ripe and slightly savory, driven by generous citrus acidity, and so much attractive tropical style fruit. This is a tremendous dry Riesling. Wow! 15 - 20 years ahead. 4.5 Stars [7/6/19]
Weinlaubenhof Alois Kracher, Number 8, Welschriesling Trockenbeerenauslese, Burgenland 2001
Great color, copper penny / deep bronze. Awesome nose, loads of butterscotch, Christmas fruitcake, raspberry, and milk caramel, and raisin, with generous botyritus spice, nutmeg, allspice, and mace, all with generous nectar, and even a touch of dutch chocolate; lovely freshness; gorgeous nose, great complexity! On the palate, candied apricot and raspberry, with captivating fruitcake notes, fresh raisin, loads of creamy caramel, all with nutmeg and mace which lingers long after the long, mineral-laden finish. Full bodied, lusciously sweet, driven by fresh raisin and perfect acidity, Wow, wow, wow! A supreme experience in lusciousness and candied mature, but with a savory note keeping everything balanced and fascinating. A singular experience. 20 to 30 years ahead, will be alive in 40; probably somewhat indestructible. 4.5 Stars [7/6/19]
Chateau d’Yquem, Sauternes 1996
Great color, orange with a hint of bronze. Phenomenal nose, loads of beeswax and marzipan, raw honey, menthol, candied apricot, raspberry, loads of hazelnut liqueur (frangelico), fruitcake, and mineral, all with caramel, toffee, saffron and mace; heavenly, I could smell this wine for hours. On the palate, intense apricot, lingering raspberry, beeswax, marzipan, some intense, bitter, lingering notes of nutmeg and mace, and butterscotch. Full bodied, intense, extremely rich but balanced; the only thing detracting from this and keeping it from perfection some bitterness to the spice, and even that serves it’s purpose in providing balance and contrast. Superbly elegant, drinking this is bliss. Certainly showing some maturity, but compared to 8 years ago this has barely budged, and it seems to be on a long arc of evolution. This may have as much as 40 - 50 years ahead of it. There is simply nothing like d’Yquem, it sings to my soul in a way no other wine does. 5 Stars [7/6/19]