After the exotic Idlewild Arneis a few days ago, I thought I'd give the Cortese a look-see:
1. Idlewild Cortese FoxHillVnyd/MendoCnty (13.4%; www.IdlewildWines.com) SamBilbro/Healdsburg 2013: Med.dark gold/med. burnished bronze color; some phenolic/resiny/skin-contact slight herbal/Kansas hay mow bit honeyed/earthy lightly fruity rather complex nose; rather tart bit tannic/austere strong phenolic/rather resiny/skin-contact bit honeyed/honeycomb some earthy rather savory/complex flavor w/ light tannins; very long/lingering rather phenolic/resiny/skin-contect rather honeyed/honeycomb/graham cracker bit Kansas hay mow/herbal bit spicy quite savory/complex fairly exotic finish w/ light tannic bite; absolutely no oxidative character whatsoever; loads of savory/honeyed/phenolic character w/ the fruit fading into the background; much like a skin-contact Friuli Ribolla but none of the oxidative character often found in Gravner/Radikon; a beautiful exotic savory white that will probably go out another 10 yrs.
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A wee BloodyPulpit:
1. Sam employs a unique approach to making his Cortese. The south-facing side of the rows are exposed to the sun and develop some color. These he picks separately and vinifies with skin-contact to pick up the flavors the phenolics give. The other side are frmtd direct-to-press to show the fresh Cortese fruit. These two lots are then blended together. At release, his Cortese shows a very nice balance between phenolic character and Cortese fruit character. With 6 yrs of age on this, the phenolic character seems to becomming to the forefront. Not too surprising.
Tom