by Paul Winalski » Tue May 28, 2019 12:31 pm
Early on, Parker's schtick was that he was an independent outsider--not part of the wine biz like the prominent critics of the time (late 1970s). And indeed he started out by visiting local wine shops, buying what was there and what his budget allowed, and reviewing those wines. But by the early 1980s he was doing barrel tastings at the Bordeaux chateaux. He came to national prominence with the 1982 Bordeaux vintage. I subscribed to The Wine Advocate for about 10 years starting in 1985. At the start of that period he was still reviewing whatever he could lay his hands on locally. By the end of that period he was no longer an outsider, but rather an integral cog in the international wine marketing machine. I miss his wonderful turns of phrase for truly awful wines. For example, a 52-point cabernet he called "the vinous equivalent of Liquid Plumber". I had the misfortune to taste that wine, and he was right.
I think Parker will be remembered most for killing off the "food wine" fashion. He claimed early on that a lot of weak, insipid stuff was being explained away as "food wine", and I think he was right to some extent. Unfortunately he managed to replace it with the "over-oaked fruit bomb" fad.
Being educated as a scientist, I had the concepts of accuracy and precision in reporting numeric measurements beaten into me. I therefore have never liked numeric scores for wine, as I feel that they claim more precision than is warranted. Parker's 50-point system is even worse than the UC Davis 20-point system in this regard.
I met Parker in person once. His enthusiasm for the enjoyment of wine is infectious.
Like him or not, this is the passing of an era.
-Paul W.