WTN: 1998 Dom. Le mas des Collines, Gigondas

1998 Le Mas des Collines, Gigondas 13.5% abv
I opened this with dinner last evening decanting for 90 minutes. It sure reminded me of the disappointing 1998 St Cosme Gigondas I opened last month. It could have easily passed for any ordinary $3.99 table wine. Thin and insipid were descriptors that crossed my mind. It also got me to thinking (I usually try to avoid this) that just perhaps those 1998 So. Rhones in my cellar may have been a waste of money. I left the remaining ~200ml in the decanter on the counter and just took a small pour some 18 hours later.
The wine is just starting to fill out. There are raspberry and sour cherry notes along with some hints of cola and earth. Clearly Grenache at this point. The tannins are very much in evidence and the acidity has arrived along with a grippy finish. On day 2 it has turned into a "nice" wine, but still not great or compelling. A glass remains for tomorrow's lunch.
Just perhaps, I should keep my stinking hands off the 1998's for a couple of years?
Imported by J et R Selections
Bill

If the '98 southern rhones are really a bust - I wasted a bit of money on them. I've got a bin full of '98s for a horozontal, and a bunch of extras of some of them (Pegau, VT, Bois de Boursan, Clos des Papes, Pallieres, Brusset, etc)
I hope - and think - you are right to stay away from the '98 Southern Rhone's for a couple of years. There are exceptions, of course, but my last taste of a Vieux Telegraphe (last March) convinced me that ten years from vintage date is about as soon as most should be tried. At least the VT was improved. A few years ago I almost decided to dump the whole case because it was thin, angular, medicinal and disgusting. Last March it showed significant promise, and some who tasted it thought it was prime. I think I will trot out the batch in the fall of 2008, at the very earliest.

1998 Le Mas des Collines, Gigondas 13.5% abv
I opened this with dinner last evening decanting for 90 minutes. It sure reminded me of the disappointing 1998 St Cosme Gigondas I opened last month. It could have easily passed for any ordinary $3.99 table wine. Thin and insipid were descriptors that crossed my mind. It also got me to thinking (I usually try to avoid this) that just perhaps those 1998 So. Rhones in my cellar may have been a waste of money. I left the remaining ~200ml in the decanter on the counter and just took a small pour some 18 hours later.
The wine is just starting to fill out. There are raspberry and sour cherry notes along with some hints of cola and earth. Clearly Grenache at this point. The tannins are very much in evidence and the acidity has arrived along with a grippy finish. On day 2 it has turned into a "nice" wine, but still not great or compelling. A glass remains for tomorrow's lunch.
Just perhaps, I should keep my stinking hands off the 1998's for a couple of years?
Imported by J et R Selections
Bill

Bill,
I've gone through a half case or more of this over the past 4-5 years, including at least 3 bottles consumed at the Bijou in Lebanon. It was gorgeous in its youth, and I didn't feel like seeing how much it was going to pick up later (pretty uncharacteristic for me -- I'm still drinking my '89 CdPs). I hope for your sake that you're right, but the last couple of bottles I had of this wine seemed pretty fully mature to me. If JC Mathes hits Indy again this Spring, let's put the question to him -- he's usually pretty forthright about his wines.

Mark Lipton