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WTN: Easter weekend wines including Hermitage

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Tim York

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WTN: Easter weekend wines including Hermitage

by Tim York » Thu Apr 25, 2019 4:55 pm

With Good Friday fish, deliciously fresh dorade, followed by goat cheeses -

2017 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Blanc - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon (4/19/2019)
A deliciously crisp, well focussed and mineral Chinon with medium body, savoury fruit, an unusual but pleasing hint of iodine and some underlying gras leading to a saline backbone and decent length. I think it quite likely that I would prefer this, at least in its youth, to the more expensive white Croix Boissée, which sees wood. Good+.

With succulent Angus beef on Saturday-

2001 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Fontalloro - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (4/20/2019)
I confess to a little disappointment with this bottle. At fault were the aromatics which were very subdued, particularly on the nose, but also on the palate. Otherwise an elegant, well shaped, medium+ bodied palate in a somewhat austerely well bred vein with some still fresh fruit, minerals and acidity and good tannic structure. I feel this is holding something in reserve and will repay more time. Just about very good now.

With Easter dinner consisting of savoury starters, Spring lamb and desserts –

NV Legras & Haas Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (4/21/2019)
A very nice BdeB Champagne from Chouilly with livelier fruit and more structure than many without sacrificing minerality and biscuit notes. Very good.

1990 Domaine des Rémizières Hermitage - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage (4/21/2019)
I chose a couple of Hermitage to accompany some delicious Easter lamb, the other being a Chave 97. I was quite expecting this bottle from a less well known producer, which I had forgotten at the bottom of a rack, to be well over the hill but it was singing with full throat in an elderly but healthy manner. It was medium/full bodied with dark mature fruit slightly rose petal infused, some old book and forest floor notes, velvety texture, round dark undertow and decent length. I returned to drink the remains at the bottom of the bottle after the vibrant Chave and it was by no means overshadowed. Very good.

1997 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage (4/21/2019)
As there were five of us at the table, I only managed to save a small glass for myself but that was enough to feel that this was close to perfection for a N.Rhône. Quite full bodied, vibrant and still quite youthful seeming but with the rough edges smoothed away by time, it showed lovely round, rich and complex berry fruit, light hints of olive and grilled meat, mouthwatering minerals and acidity balancing the rich fruit together with silky texture leading to a firm and long finish. I guess that there is more mileage in this wine but excellent right now.

NV Mas Amiel Maury 6 Ans d'Age - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Maury (4/21/2019)
The two Hermitage were a hard act to follow and this one didn't manage it, seeming bland and dull by comparison. This is my first disappointment from Mas Amiel but I may be able to get a better balanced view when I tackle the remainder of the bottle.

Retasted 4/22/2019, it was no longer overshadowed by preceding wines and was a decent pairing for a chocolate dessert but was still a long way off the estate's 15 ans d'âge and vintage wines in complexity and quality
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: Easter weekend wines including Hermitage

by Dale Williams » Mon Apr 29, 2019 4:31 pm

Thanks for the notes
The Remizieres didn't have a cuvee- the ones I run across always seem to be labeled- Emilie is the one I had, but couple others I think
I always forget about the Baudry whites, and I shouldn't. Thanks for reminder
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Re: WTN: Easter weekend wines including Hermitage

by Tim York » Tue Apr 30, 2019 3:32 pm

Dale, at present the Remizières website lists two Hermitage cuvées, Émilie and Autrement. The latter is more expensive but not necessarily better, €100+ versus c.€40 according to Searcher. 29 years ago, it seems to have been different. My bottle was plain Hermitage. I also bought some 1991 from the same source which were excellent but disappeared many years ago.
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