by Dale Williams » Thu Feb 01, 2007 9:00 am
A few thoughts:
I agree that with a GC Burgundy you want food - but to complement, not dominate. Roast chicken is always good. Duck has a great affinity to Burgundy, as do mushrooms. Pork does well as David suggests.
I agree that you might want to think about a nice 1er rather than a GC. But if you do want a GC, don't panic at mention of "a few hundred dollars." That (or way more) might be standard tariff for Musigny, Richebourg, or Chambertin from a good producer. But in the $50-150 range you can find good producers' Romanee St. Vivant, Grands Echezeaux, Clos de la Roche, Clos St. Denis, etc. Or Clos des Lambrays, and the better situated Clos de Vougeot. All of which can be outstanding. What I would not advise is the Clos de Vougeot, Corton, or Chapelle Chambertin from an obscure producer, which will sell for $50-100 (maybe less for Corton) on the basis of Grand Cru on the label, but almost invariably be not as good as a good producers 1er (or even village).
Producer is the single most important thing to me about any Burgundy.
Vintage matters, too. '99, '01, & '02 are great vintages, but GCs are mostly shut down right now. '98s are a bit variable as to stage. My favorite readily available drink now vintage is 2000 - some wines could use time, but most are fairly open (though the better ones have more life left than some critic's predictions)
If you haven't purchased your wine yet, best bet is to talk to the Burg guy at a serious wine store. He'll generally know what he has that is drinking well. While I think the "Burgundy is a minefield" thing is overstated, there are a lot of variables, and I have had several GC Burgundies where I would have preferred a village wine from a top producer (or even a Bourgogne from Lafarge, Bachelet, or Chevillon).