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WTN: A Barbera I like

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Dale Williams

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WTN: A Barbera I like

by Dale Williams » Wed Jan 31, 2007 11:21 am

Despite my tendency to value acidity, I can't say Barbera has ever been my favorite grape. Too often the "better" examples are smothered in oak for my tastes, and the "lesser" ones can be a bit spiky,and sometimes a bit too grapey. But I keep trying, and had picked up the 2005 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barbera d'Alba based on liking the Grignolino and some older Baroli from this rather tradtional producer. Opened Monday (probably influenced by Jim Cowan's post on a couple of Barberas)with a pasta and Bolognese sauce, and rather liked it. Good acidity but with the edges rounded, bright red fruit and a clean if short finish. Tuesday revisited with a simple roasted herbed chicken, potatoes, and steamed/sauteed spinach. Softer, nice cherry and red plum fruit, smooth. At $10 a Barbera I could drink more of. Not to the level of complexity that Jim described in the Conterno and Giacosa (no surprise there), but tastier than most to me. B


Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

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