California Touring Advice

Can anyone give me some good pointers for places to taste and visit given the following? A young guy I know, who is not a wine geek or wealthy, wants to spend 5 days driving around Napa/Sonoma seeing the sights and tasting wine. When I told him what some tastings (let alone bottles) cost in Napa, he wasn't pleased. I told him he might be better off focusing on Sonoma and maybe even somewhere like Mendocino (Anderson Valley?). It has been several years since my last CA visit, so can anyone provide some places or even general areas that might fit the bill?

[David M. Bueker]

Pretty much everyone charges these days.

Pretty much everyone charges these days.

Not looking specifically for places that are free, but reasonable for a young guy just trying to learn about wine, not aimed at Napa high rollers.

Does it have to be the "coastal" wine country? If he is looking for something a little cheaper, producing more wines that might be amenable to a developing "young" palate (fruiter, bolder), then should he visit the foothills (Amador....or even Lodi?)

If he's looking for scenery as well as wine, Sonoma County has a lot to offer. Drive down Hwy 116 to Jenner, then up Hwy 1 to Fort Ross, the early 19th century Russian settlement. Armstrong Grove State Park in Guerneville is a great way to connect with nature. Last time I was there, I saw a cougar going the other way.
Most wineries in Sonoma County charge $10 or $15 for a tasting, refunded if you buy a bottle.
Of wineries that are open daily, I can recommend Dry Creek Vineyards, Pedroncelli, Hawkes (they have a tasting room in Sonoma and another in Jimtown, just outside Healdsburg). Hanna and Alexander Vineyards are worth visiting, as is David Coffaro in Dry Creek Valley.
The wineries I treasure the most are only open on the weekend, though.

Does it have to be the "coastal" wine country? If he is looking for something a little cheaper, producing more wines that might be amenable to a developing "young" palate (fruiter, bolder), then should he visit the foothills (Amador....or even Lodi?)

Thanks, I'll suggest this possibility to him, even though he seems to have his heart set on something closer to SF. How is the bike riding going?

If he's looking for scenery as well as wine, Sonoma County has a lot to offer. Drive down Hwy 116 to Jenner, then up Hwy 1 to Fort Ross, the early 19th century Russian settlement. Armstrong Grove State Park in Guerneville is a great way to connect with nature. Last time I was there, I saw a cougar going the other way.
Most wineries in Sonoma County charge $10 or $15 for a tasting, refunded if you buy a bottle.
Of wineries that are open daily, I can recommend Dry Creek Vineyards, Pedroncelli, Hawkes (they have a tasting room in Sonoma and another in Jimtown, just outside Healdsburg). Hanna and Alexander Vineyards are worth visiting, as is David Coffaro in Dry Creek Valley.
The wineries I treasure the most are only open on the weekend, though.

Thanks for those tips. As I mentioned, the last time I was in Sonoma it wasn't expensive to taste and I came back with bottles from Rochioli, Dehlinger, Rafanelli, Cline, Topolos (!), Chateau St. Jean (the first vintage of Cinq Cepages - $15!), etc. I suspect things have moved on, and I'm guessing these recommendations would be out of date. I did do some driving around on the coast and eventually made my way up to Point Arena, Boonville and Ukiah - I will recommend it for the redwoods and beautiful scenery. Recall bringing back some good wine from Navarro, Roederer Estate, Lazy Creek, and probably others, but I don't know what is currently worthwhile in the Anderson Valley.

[Jenise]

Navarro's still there, Joe. And there are quite a few wineries along that one road, enough to entertain someone for days in the manner you describe. There are Sonoma are where to go for someone like you describe.

There are only 400+ wineries in Sonoma County these days. There are several in the Barlow in Sebastopol, a bunch in Healdsburg, and even some in downtown Santa Rosa, as well as a bunch in Sonoma.
Topolos and Davis Bynum are no more. It's my feeling that the ones that look modern and shiny are likely to not as good and more expensive than the ones that look a bit timeworn. But that may be because I'm a bit timeworn.

There are only 400+ wineries in Sonoma County these days. There are several in the Barlow in Sebastopol, a bunch in Healdsburg, and even some in downtown Santa Rosa, as well as a bunch in Sonoma.
Topolos and Davis Bynum are no more. It's my feeling that the ones that look modern and shiny are likely to not as good and more expensive than the ones that look a bit timeworn. But that may be because I'm a bit timeworn.

I agree with choosing the places that look more humble. BTW, I put Topolos on the list because they were always ridiculed for their bretty, over the top wines, when organic didn't quite have the same cachet as it does today. The bottle I brought back was something lake an old vines Petit Sirah, dark as ink and over 15%, but it was actually not bad. And, speaking of slick places, the only reason I stopped by St. Jean was I was driving north up to Mendocino at 9 a.m. and saw them putting out an "Open" flag next to the driveway, and thought what the hell. Had a blast tasting (a lot - too much for breakfast!) with a visiting young French winemaker manning the tasting room

Thanks, I'll suggest this possibility to him, even though he seems to have his heart set on something closer to SF. How is the bike riding going?

I just think this may even make more sense, to be honest.

Pretty well. I am...obsessive. Actually ran into Walt at the Broc Cellars Broctacular party on Sunday (nice party!) and he had ridden up from West Oakland BART.

Did a grueling ride on Friday in coastal Sonoma County-Petaluma to Dillon Beach. The Dillon Beach area west of Highway 1 (Tomales) has some amazing climbs-15% grades. You are only doing rollers, but I climbed 2000+ feet just west of Highway 1. Over 5200 feet total for the day-a record since I set up the Garmin. (I rode around Oakland and Berkeley on Sunday after Broctacular-I am fascinated by city cycling, and Sunday is the best day to do so!)

There are only 400+ wineries in Sonoma County these days. There are several in the Barlow in Sebastopol, a bunch in Healdsburg, and even some in downtown Santa Rosa, as well as a bunch in Sonoma.
Topolos and Davis Bynum are no more. It's my feeling that the ones that look modern and shiny are likely to not as good and more expensive than the ones that look a bit timeworn. But that may be because I'm a bit timeworn.

Joseph Swan is definitely not modern and shiny. I enjoy their wines, and the winemaker is almost always there.

Unfortunately, Swan is only open on the weekends. Nalle, Forchini and Yoakim Bridge are among the others that I like and aren't open during the week. And, of course, none of them is "fancy"; just good wine.

Unfortunately, Swan is only open on the weekends. Nalle, Forchini and Yoakim Bridge are among the others that I like and aren't open during the week. And, of course, none of them is "fancy"; just good wine.

Yeah. I liked Forchini. Nice cabernet

One of my favorite wine touring strategies in Sonoma is to get ahold of one of those winery maps (most hotels in the SF area have them) and pick a road that has a cluster of wineries on it. Then visit every place on that road that's open for tasting. You get some disappointments this way, for sure, but you also find hidden gems.

-Paul W.

I've been known to pick up one of the wine maps at one of the wineries. There are usually some that I'm not familiar with. So many wineries!!

I’ll chime in on behalf of Porter Creek, in the RRV. Really nice wine at a range of price points, good folks, laid-back non-corporate atmosphere. And Ridge’s Lytton tasting room is always fun.

I just wish I knew a way to steer people away from Wilson outlets. <sigh>

I just wish I knew a way to steer people away from Wilson outlets. <sigh>

As I noted on the other thread, it is often pretty easy. Avoid The Banners.
Garlic to us vampiric wine lovers.

There really are more places to taste than one could visit in a lifetime. Even my little sun-baked portion of the Bay Area, the Livermore Valley, has over 50 wineries.

That said, with 5 days, first time, here's what I'd do. Most people want to see some of the famous wineries, so that means time in Napa Valley. I've heard Beringer still does good visits, and they are certainly historic, given that pretty much everyone in Napa charges. Honestly, it's often cheaper to visit a wine bar and taste at retail. It's only about a 30-minute drive from Napa over to Sonoma, and lodging is much more affordable. I really like the town of Sonoma, there's a small family-owned winery right on the square called Bump that is relatively affordable. Then I would head up 128 and visit Navarro vineyards, probably the highest quality to price ratio of any winery I know, and it's one of the most beautiful drives in the state. Maybe stay one or two nights in Mendocino, depending on how much you like that coastal wilderness. Then head back down 1, hit Geyserville or one of the northen Sonoma towns, visit the Jack London park. Clear Lake is really pretty but I the wines are wildly inconsistent so I would steer clear of there.

I just wish I knew a way to steer people away from Wilson outlets. <sigh>

OK, clue me in: who or what is Wilson??? I see you mention them in the zin notes posted by Jenise.

I just wish I knew a way to steer people away from Wilson outlets. <sigh>

OK, clue me in: who or what is Wilson??? I see you mention them in the zin notes posted by Jenise.

Wilson is a family name you may be familiar with from the sport of Tennis. They have created a small empire of once independent, once enjoyable wineries, starting with their eponymous winery on Dry Creek Road. Mrs. Wilson is very involved in the winemaking, I understand, and she favors a very powerful, full throttle, fruit-and alcohol style. Taste is a matter of personal taste, and they are not my favorite wines. She does have good taste in architecture-the Soda Rock restoration in Alexander Valley is pretty spectacular if a bit cartoonish.

These are all opinions, of course.

My feeling is that the Wilson style is "massively overblown". And not much else. Brian and I are pretty much on the same page with our opinions.

My feeling is that the Wilson style is "massively overblown". And not much else. Brian and I are pretty much on the same page with our opinions.

LOL. I was trying to be polite. Yes. I CAN be polite sometimes.