IsaacBaker on Virginia Wines

Nice review by IsaacBaker on WineTerroirist of his recent tasting of Virginia wines:
Isaac/VAWines

As expected, Viognier (VA's claim to greatness) led in the whites category. Disappointed in the reds, where are exclusively Cab/Bdx-based wines. Where's the Teroldego, the Refosco, the Schioppettino, the Nebbiolo?? Wines that could be really exciting. Maybe VA winemakers should get out of their rut. And no Trump wines...this will not play out well in the WhiteHouse. And Isaac really liked two VA dessert wines. I've had the Barboursville Paxxito passito wine of an earlier vintage and liked it quite a lot.
Anyway...interesting article.
Tom

[David M. Bueker]

Baker was writing about wines that won the competition. Virginia wineries have made a big bet on Petit Verdot, and it is working out.

There is plenty of experimentation, but it takes time for vines to mature, and winemakers to get a feel for the grapes. I sorely doubt they are going to head into Tom Hill approved experimentation, as the land costs are prohibitive, so cash flow is key. Tourism also drives lots of purchases, and tourists are not going to buy Teroldego or Refosco. It is hard enough to get them to buy something other than Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon.

PV? That is interesting David.

[David M. Bueker]

I taste VA wines pretty regularly, and Petit Verdot is doing very well.

Where's the Teroldego, the Refosco, the Schioppettino, the Nebbiolo?? Wines that could be really exciting. Maybe VA winemakers should get out of their rut.

I was knocked out by Breaux Vineyards Nebbiolo some years ago when I visited the winery and went up to the vineyard. I later managed to get some in the UK for a couple of tastings I presented.

And Virginia grows the really exciting Pinotage and makes good wines from them.

One time Viognier was rare and exciting and Virginia was the first place in the US growing it

But seems to me that many Virginian wineries make their money as wedding and function destinations and most of their sales are to visitors, and visitors seem to want sweet or semi sweet wines and varieties whose name they recognise.

Where's the Teroldego, the Refosco, the Schioppettino, the Nebbiolo?? Wines that could be really exciting. Maybe VA winemakers should get out of their rut.

I was knocked out by Breaux Vineyards Nebbiolo some years ago when I visited the winery and went up to the vineyard. I later managed to get some in the UK for a couple of tastings I presented.

And Virginia grows the really exciting Pinotage and makes good wines from them.

One time Viognier was rare and exciting and Virginia was the first place in the US growing it

But seems to me that many Virginian wineries make their money as wedding and function destinations and most of their sales are to visitors, and visitors seem to want sweet or semi sweet wines and varieties whose name they recognise.

Well, Peter....I don't think that is quite correct. DennisHorton was the first grower of Viog in VA, but I'm
pretty sure he was much later than the pioneers in Calif. At one time, the Horton Viog was as good as any
in the USofA. Not had one lately, though. Patrick Comisky's book has the early Calif pioneers. Don't recall
exactly who had the first one out or the year, though.
Tom

Tom

[David M. Bueker]

But seems to me that many Virginian wineries make their money as wedding and function destinations and most of their sales are to visitors, and visitors seem to want sweet or semi sweet wines and varieties whose name they recognize.

The sweet or semi-sweet thing is fading. Recognition is still very important.

Well, Peter....I don't think that is quite correct. DennisHorton was the first grower of Viog in VA, but I'm
pretty sure he was much later than the pioneers in Calif.

Much later?

Not what I understand. I've looked back through my California wine books from the later 70s and early 80s without success.

William Kaufman's 1982 Pocket Encyclopaedia of California Wine mentions grape varieties and who is making them but doesn't mention Viognier, but that proves nothing.

Be interested who was making Viognier in the late 70's in Caifornia.

Going back to Horton and niche varieties, see current list that contains (among more mainstream and hybrids)

Petite Manseng
Tannat
Nebbiolo
Rkatsitelli
Albarino
Roussane
Touriga Nacional
Tinta Cao
Mourvedre
Malbec

http://www.hortonwine.com/Horton%20Pric ... %20PDF.pdf
Pinotage

Well, Peter....I don't think that is quite correct. DennisHorton was the first grower of Viog in VA, but I'm
pretty sure he was much later than the pioneers in Calif.

Much later?

Not what I understand. I've looked back through my California wine books from the later 70s and early 80s without success.

William Kaufman's 1982 Pocket Encyclopaedia of California Wine mentions grape varieties and who is making them but doesn't mention Viognier, but that proves nothing.

Be interested who was making Viognier in the late 70's in Caifornia.

Going back to Horton and niche varieties, see current list that contains (among more mainstream and hybrids)

Petite Manseng
Tannat
Nebbiolo
Rkatsitelli
Albarino
Roussane
Touriga Nacional
Tinta Cao
Mourvedre
Malbec

http://www.hortonwine.com/Horton%20Pric ... %20PDF.pdf
Pinotage

Peter,
It's all spelled out in PatrickComisky's book on Rhones. I'll look when I get home.

The first seminar on Viognier was held at the Taste of Vail in the early '90's. On the panel was JoshJensen/BobLindquist/JohnAlban and the Villa StHelena guy. At question, some idiot in the audience got up and addressed his question to JoshJensen: "Josh...how do you go about making a DollyParton Viognier", with all the appropriate gestures in the front of his chest. It brought the audience down. Since then, "DollyParton Viognier" has entered the Rhone lexicon. Even PhillipeGuigal has used it.
Tom

Dolly Parton Viognier? Yes, I get that! Big and blousy....

Just looked at Bob Thompsons 'Pocket Encyclopaedia of California Wines' 1980 where he lists varieties growing then in CA, some would be very rare now.

Smallest acreage he has is Charbono at 63 acres. No mention at all of Viognier, but

Chauche Gris (Gray Riesling) 2,031 acres
Folle Blanche 351 acres
Flora 461 acres
Green Hungarian 325 acres
Grignolino 321 acres
Tinta Madeira 1,289 acres

Dolly Parton Viognier? Yes, I get that! Big and blousy....

Just looked at Bob Thompsons 'Pocket Encyclopaedia of California Wines' 1980 where he lists varieties growing then in CA, some would be very rare now.

Smallest acreage he has is Charbono at 63 acres. No mention at all of Viognier, but

Chauche Gris (Gray Riesling) 2,031 acres
Folle Blanche 351 acres
Flora 461 acres
Green Hungarian 325 acres
Grignolino 321 acres
Tinta Madeira 1,289 acres

The ChaucheGris, once known as GrayRiesling, is also known as Trousseau Gris,
a far-more marketable name (yeah...sure!!) that most winemakers use.

Yup, Peter..."Dolly Parton Viognier"....big & blousey, silicone-laden, bouncy & jiggly...but it has to
be accompanied by the appropriate hand gestures!!
Tom

Peter,
It's all spelled out in PatrickComisky's book on Rhones. I'll look when I get home.

Anything in that book, Tom?

Dennis Horton died in June. This was in The Washington Post

He achieved his breakthrough when his 1993 Horton Vineyards Viognier — only his second vintage — achieved critical acclaim and impressed California winemakers in a Judgment of Paris-style blind tasting.

https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyl ... e9dbbee4f8

Peter,
It's all spelled out in PatrickComisky's book on Rhones. I'll look when I get home.

Anything in that book, Tom?

Dennis Horton died in June. This was in The Washington Post

He achieved his breakthrough when his 1993 Horton Vineyards Viognier — only his second vintage — achieved critical acclaim and impressed California winemakers in a Judgment of Paris-style blind tasting.

https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyl ... e9dbbee4f8

Peter,
According tp Patrick's book..
the first Calif Viogs were:
PeteMinor/RitchieCreek
BillSmith/LaJota
JosephPhelps
JoshJensen/Calera
in the yrs '85-'87.
Josh brought Viog cuttings from Vernay in '74 and his were the first in the ground in Calif.

Other early ones:
BobLindquist/Qupe 1987
SteveEdmunds/Knight'sVlly 1989
JohnAlban first release 1991
DennisHorton/plntd in 1989

MattGarretson started the ViognierGuild in Atlanta in 1981

Tom

Thanks Tom

That's fascinating

The Horton website say's "In California Dennis learned of only a few producers working with and producing Viognier in limited quantities. However, new plantings were going in all over the state and enthusiasm was high. So the decision was made to plant Viognier, ...."

Dennis Horton personally told me "we supplied Viognier vines to California nurseries" from which I wrongly assumed there weren't any before. But its a good legend and ......

But

Thanks Tom

That's fascinating

The Horton website say's "In California Dennis learned of only a few producers working with and producing Viognier in limited quantities. However, new plantings were going in all over the state and enthusiasm was high. So the decision was made to plant Viognier, ...."

Dennis Horton personally told me "we supplied Viognier vines to California nurseries" from which I wrongly assumed there weren't any before. But its a good legend and ......
But

Yup, Peter....most of the early Viog in Calif were suitcase clones...not legal. So Dennis could have very well been supplying his certified (presumably, thru Geneva I believe) Viog to Calif nursuries.
Tom

[...JoshJensen/Calera
in the yrs '85-'87.
...

Other early ones:
BobLindquist/Qupe 1987
SteveEdmunds/Knight'sVlly 1989
JohnAlban first release 1991
DennisHorton/plntd in 1989


Tom

Not really "pretty sure he was much later than the pioneers in Calif." as you were saying earlier.

[...JoshJensen/Calera
in the yrs '85-'87.
...

Other early ones:
BobLindquist/Qupe 1987
SteveEdmunds/Knight'sVlly 1989
JohnAlban first release 1991
DennisHorton/plntd in 1989


Tom

Not really "pretty sure he was much later than the pioneers in Calif." as you were saying earlier.

Well...it wasn't until 1993 vintage that he released his first Viognier. Whether that is "much" is a matter of words.
Tom