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WTN: Three recent Bordeauxs

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WTN: Three recent Bordeauxs

by Jenise » Mon Jan 29, 2007 4:10 pm

1999 D'Issan, Margaux
I have only had 80's vintage D'Issans, so as part of my self-education of Bordeaux I decided to open this orphan 99. Jet black color, nearly opaque. An initial asphyxiating nose of asphalt was joined after 3-4 hours by some black fruit and toast which, on the whole, was not unlike a burnt breakfast. Which I could not serve, so into the fridge it went for like two weeks after which abuse I poured a glass and found it completely unchanged. It's not just full-bodied, it's unpleasantly heavy in every way possible and suitable only for refinishing driveways.

1998 La Louviere, Graves
Decanted three hours. Maroon color with a little bricking on the edge. Black cherry, plums, and tobacco, with some interesting secondary development around the gravelly minerality. Drinks well now and would be especially good with beef, but it will reward more cellaring to work out the tannins. Really happy with the way this showed and that I have more bottles.

1983 Chambert-Marbuzet, St. Estephe
Tawny pale red color and the nose of an old Burgundy. Layers of aroma and flavor just tumbled out of the glass: cherries, roses, tea, berries, red currant, wet leaf piles in autumn, cinnamon, mint, dusty leather, and some of that unmistakable St. Estephe barnyard. It got better with every sip, every glass. What a great find.

Edited to correct a question about Chambert-Marbuzet: I did find it in Parker's book after all. He doesn't rate the 83, but says the wines "can be entirely too obvious" and "the potential to age beyond a decate is suspect." Well, well.
Last edited by Jenise on Mon Jan 29, 2007 4:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: WTN: Three recent Bordeauxs

by Dale Williams » Mon Jan 29, 2007 4:23 pm

Haven't had the '99 Issan, but am quite surprised. Not the style Emmanuel Cruze tends to favor. I've met him twice, he believes in Margaux as a wine of elegance.Not a strict traditionalist, but no attempts at garage wine, either. I realize '99 had some hallmarks of a "California" vintage, but this surprises me.

Thanks for '98 La Louviere note. I only have a couple left, trying to hold off.

Never heard of Chambert-Marbuzet
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Re: WTN: Three recent Bordeauxs

by Jenise » Mon Jan 29, 2007 4:51 pm

Dale, the Chambert-Marbuzet is in the Parker book after all, right where it should be. Don't know how I missed it the first time. Anyway, it's a Cru Bourgeois, 70/30 cab/mer, with a "maturing plateau 2-8 years beyond the vintage". I have news for him....
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Re: WTN: Three recent Bordeauxs

by Covert » Tue Jan 30, 2007 6:44 am

Jenise wrote:Dale, the Chambert-Marbuzet is in the Parker book after all, right where it should be. Don't know how I missed it the first time. Anyway, it's a Cru Bourgeois, 70/30 cab/mer, with a "maturing plateau 2-8 years beyond the vintage". I have news for him....


Yes, it's a Henri Duboscq property. He owns Haut-Marbuzet, too. (I assume he is still alive.) He's famous, as you probably know, for comparing elements of his wines to the body parts of female movie stars.

Interesting re the 1999. I may crack one soon. I like asphalt in wines; but, from what you describe, it sounds a bit more like pavement.
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Re: WTN: Three recent Bordeauxs

by Jenise » Tue Jan 30, 2007 11:07 am

Henri sounds charming. Not. :)

I was shocked by the D'Issan, it was like ordering regular coffee and getting espresso instead. I've read notes on younger D'Issans (wasn't D'Issan one of the featured wineries at a tasting both you and Dale went to in NYC?) and of course I've had many other Margaux wines, and this bore no resemblance to anything those prior observations would have led me to expect. Do you have some in your cellar?
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Re: WTN: Three recent Bordeauxs

by Covert » Tue Jan 30, 2007 12:28 pm

Jenise wrote:Henri sounds charming. Not. :)

I was shocked by the D'Issan, it was like ordering regular coffee and getting espresso instead. I've read notes on younger D'Issans (wasn't D'Issan one of the featured wineries at a tasting both you and Dale went to in NYC?) and of course I've had many other Margaux wines, and this bore no resemblance to anything those prior observations would have led me to expect. Do you have some in your cellar?


Tried younger D'ssans in NYC. Never had the '99. Have one in my cellar, but Parker said it would evolve until 2020, so I figured it was too young to drink. Not sure if I will open the one and only. I had hoped I had more. But I might.
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Re: WTN: Three recent Bordeauxs

by Jenise » Tue Jan 30, 2007 1:21 pm

No point in your opening that now--unless they bottle from barrel and there's huge variation coming from that, you'll only find that you have an undrinkable wine just like mine. With one, you might as well gamble on the wait.
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Re: WTN: Three recent Bordeauxs

by Dale Williams » Tue Jan 30, 2007 2:07 pm

The dinner featured '01-'03 Ch. d'Issan (with Lagrange and Corbin), as well as older wines, in the case of Issan I think '96 & '89. I thought the Margaux was quite delicate compared to the Lagrange, this was my note on the '01:
Medium-weight, perfumed and elegant. Very pretty wine, not a blockbuster. Wine of the flight for drinking now. B+

Wonder what happened in '99.
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Re: WTN: Three recent Bordeauxs

by Covert » Tue Jan 30, 2007 5:50 pm

Jenise wrote:No point in your opening that now--unless they bottle from barrel and there's huge variation coming from that, you'll only find that you have an undrinkable wine just like mine. With one, you might as well gamble on the wait.


Yes, you are right. I'll wait another ten years or so. I will print off your original note and keep it in my inventory book. Who knows if we will still be in communication in ten years, but it is nice to think that we will, by virtue of our shared "children."

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