1999 Aldo Conterno, Barbera d’Alba:
Although barbera will never me my favorite wine grape, this was really complex and nuanced, deeply fruited, with solid acidity and a long, slightly drying finish. A hell of a wine and terrific along side pasta with mushrooms. Brought in by Vias Imports and about $20; I’d buy it again at that price (and I never thought I’d say that).
2005 Kangarilla Road, Viognier:
14% alcohol, McLaren Vale fruit; apricot and apricot pit on the nose with hints of peach and spice; a bit disjointed on the palate with fresh flavors that follow the nose, good acidity and add an odd stony tang that in limited amounts is good counter-point and at higher levels is off-putting – and I seem to get a variation on how much of it is present in any one sip; medium length finish. I know near nothing about viognier except that when I look at most bottles for sale I see alcohols of 14% to 17% as a rule; and that puts me off. And this bottle probably isn’t going to bring me into the fold. Imported by Click Imports and about $16; I won’t buy it again.
Anybody with suggestions for a viognier with less alcohol and a more integrated and mineral driven approach?
2004 Giacosa, Barbera d’Alba:
So I like barbera better than I thought; this is even more nuanced, more old vine intense and more deeply fruited than the Conterno above; a wine that takes time to open in the glass and has years ahead of it in the cellar. Fantastic with lentil stew. Imported by Locascio/Winebow and about $23; I’ll buy more this weekend.
2002 Allemand, Cornas:
Smokey, stony black fruit with accents of red fruit on the nose; the palate follows the nose with a satin texture and a tangy, supple mouth feel that bring the flavors alive, moderate concentration, hidden structure and a medium length, very clean finish. So there you have my tasting note and it is not even close to conveying what I want to say about this wine and this producer.
First, there are a handful (if that) of producers in the world who make fine wine every vintage. Allemand is one of them. 2002 was an extremely difficult vintage in the Rhône; brutal rains, devastating weather. And yet, here is the essence of Cornas.
Second, when I drink this I am filled with the desire to make wine like this. I help folks who make wine in CA; some of them make syrah. But nobody makes wine that’s even close. It is a very long time between glasses that inspire as does this lovely wine.
And even that is not enough.
Imported by Chelsea Ventures and about $35; stupidly under priced.
Best, Jim
