A Produttori del Barbaresco Experiment

[David M. Bueker]

I drink a lot of the Produttori del Barbaresco wines. I find them to be outstanding values from the Nebbiolo Langhe to the single vineyard Riservas.

On a business trip to Italy this past week I had the chance to select the wines for our group at multiple dinners. Due to the limitations of expense reporting I had to keep things under control, and seeing wines from the Produttori on multiple lists gave me a thought. I would order a number of different bottlings that I had previously tried in the USA, to see if there were any notable differences when tasted on home turf in Torino.

Over the course of 3 dinners we tried the 2015 and 2016 Nebbiolo Langhe, as well as the 2013 and 2014 Barbaresco. (No Riservas were to be had...) Overall I thought that the Italian sourced bottles were remarkably similar to the bottles I had recently opened in the USA (less the 2015 Langhe which I do not personally own). Granted these were all essentially new release wines, so any long-term effects of transatlantic shipping would not have been apparent on my USA bottles, but it was comforting that each of the wines had similar "vibrance levels" in both places.

Comparatively the 2016 Langhe is a touch richer than the 2015, and seems more like a good vintage Barbaresco, while the 2015 fits more into its slot as a Nebbiolo Langhe, albeit a really good one. The major difference was between the 2013 and 2014 Barbaresco. The 2013 shows more depth on the nose, and has excellent mid-palate density. The 2014 is a very pretty wine (I loved the cherry and floral aromatics), but it's much leaner on the palate. The 2014 is a nice wine, the 2013 is fantastic. I was able to snag an extra glass at the restaurant, and try both vintages side-by-side, and there was a stark difference. I only have a bottle or two of the 2013 (not sure how I missed it given that I buy essentially every year), and if I could trade my 2014s for half as many 2013s I would. I like the 2014, and it will make a lovely dinner wine (as it did last week), but the 2013 is really outstanding.

Granted these were all essentially new release wines, so any long-term effects of transatlantic shipping would not have been apparent on my USA bottles, but it was comforting that each of the wines had similar "vibrance levels" in both places..

That is comforting, and all in the name of science!

Of course it doesn't mean that all wines have similar vibrance levels on both sides of the Atlantic. Young fresh low-sulfur wines in particular seem to have an extra dimension in Europe.

[Robin Garr]

I've long wondered how much effect the "Yay, I'm in Italy" syndrome has on me, but maybe being there for work takes the edge off that. I'm with Rahsaan, though: Thanks for the research. I like the Produtorri wines, too.

You make me want to pick up more of the 2013 and skip the 2014 Barbaresco!

I have seen quite a few reviews that say the 2014 is slightly better than the 2013. Now you have me wondering if it is a travel issue for the wine, or.....

[Jenise]

You make me want to pick up more of the 2013 and skip the 2014 Barbaresco!

I have seen quite a few reviews that say the 2014 is slightly better than the 2013. Now you have me wondering if it is a travel issue for the wine, or.....

Don't. You're out of room.

[David M. Bueker]

You make me want to pick up more of the 2013 and skip the 2014 Barbaresco!

I have seen quite a few reviews that say the 2014 is slightly better than the 2013. Now you have me wondering if it is a travel issue for the wine, or.....

The 2013 is demonstrably better. Granted the 2014 is a very nice wine, but...

Don't. You're out of room.

There are still a (very) few spots where I can fit more wine. Is it my fault my friends don't help me drink it fast enough.....

David - I trust your palate - will probably change my plans to suit. I can always grab one bottle of 2014 and have a taste off before all of the 2013 is out of the system.

How did you find the 2012 Barbaresco compared to the 2013 and 2014?

David, love your thoughtful approach to the challenge. Like yourself, we enjoy Produttori Barbaresco, and the "plain" Barbaresco in particular represents great value. Any thoughts about when to start enjoying the 2013?

BTW, I am in heaven in Italy, but I believe my wine discrimination is intact there.

[David M. Bueker]

Chaim-I have not opened a 2012 yet.

As for when to drink the 2013, have one soon. It’s really tasty. I am sure it will shed some fat and expose more tannin soon. That will mean the usual long waiting period. But it’s so good right now.

The regular bottlings can last very well. I bought a case of the 1985 and finished it about 20 years later still in fine shape.

I have a case of magnums of 1999 and opened one - and will leave the rest another few years.

I have back to 1989 in the single vineyard wines and they are wonderful (except for the one that was corked!)

Speaking of Produttori, a friend opened a 2005 Produttori Barbaresco Montestefano (among other wines) at Easter dinner yesterday. Thirty minutes after decanting the wine was utterly dumb. We let it sit another thirty minutes, then decided to put it aside until the next day (today). I expect we'll find that the wine was either backwards, or had the version of cork taint that results in muted flavors/smells, in which case it should be revolting tonight. Will report back.

[David M. Bueker]

FYI, Levi Dalton’s podcast where he interviews Aldo Vacca is a must listen. Check for I’ll Drink To That, episode 440.

Speaking of Produttori, a friend opened a 2005 Produttori Barbaresco Montestefano (among other wines) at Easter dinner yesterday. Thirty minutes after decanting the wine was utterly dumb. We let it sit another thirty minutes, then decided to put it aside until the next day (today). I expect we'll find that the wine was either backwards, or had the version of cork taint that results in muted flavors/smells, in which case it should be revolting tonight. Will report back.

24 hours later the wine is not TCA stinky, and the aromatics are pleasing but still very shy.

A few more years in the cellar may have helped, but I'm going to call this an "off" bottle.