Some notes from a dinner (with a Piemontese slant) at our place. The notes are slightly rushed in a couple of places, in particular where I was doing my headless chicken impression in the kitchen.
N.V. Conte Bernardi Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Brut - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco di Valdobbiadene
Much better than expected, as we'd picked this up as a bin end for £5 and the seemingly low fill worried me that we'd have a flat oxidised wine (so much so that a reserve bottle of Lambrusco was waiting in the wings). I shouldn't have worried.
The colour was a straw/straw gold of bright appearance and the bubbles were not just there, but with a fine bead. Overall level of fizz was indeed more frizzante than sparkling. The nose had a good 'grapiness' about it with subtle complexity coming from woody/yeasty notes. On the palate it was relatively light, limey, and refreshing - essentially a perfect aperitif. A bargain at £5, it does demonstrate how Champagne pricing has lost the plot.
2004 Marcarini Dolcetto d'Alba Boschi di Berri - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Dolcetto d'Alba
Not too many notes on this as I was tasting it mostly in a 'kitchen frenzy'.
The colour was a striking rich, deep purple with no signs of age. The nose is big with good fruit and (not unpleasant) toffee-caramel. The palate was rich, but subtle and the acidity was adequate, but which would concern me for longer cellaring. Went down very well amongst the group and in the post meal sweep-up around the wines, this was a popular revisit for a couple of people. Worth getting again.
1979 Nervi Gattinara - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Gattinara
Well, this threw up some surprises!
The colour was surprisingly bold and young looking, albeit with some browning at the rim. The nose was a wonderfully rich mix of mushroom, coffee and hints of the fading fruit. Absolutely stunning and the sort of nose that you can spend quite some time over. On the palate the richness was replicated, with fine texture and acidity was spot-on. I couldn't fault this wine and showed much of what I seek in older wines. For me this is around it's peak, though others might prefer more than a distant shadow of faded primary fruit. Definitely wine of the night and at the price a crazy bargain, showing that it's not just the famous names in the famous regions who can make great wine.
1954 Antonio Vallana e Figlio Piemonte Nebbiolo Spanna Campi Raudii - Italy, Piedmont, Piemonte
Colour-wise, this was really showing it's age, with a mahogany colour and little hint of red left. However the colour was quite deep. Fill level was upper shoulder IIRC. The nose had a strong tertiary mushroom nose, with shades of licorice and medicinal sweetness. Certainly impressive and complex. On the palate the dominant mushroom aromas were replicated, together with the licorice. Initially it fell away quite quickly on the finish, though with a little air, it held up slightly better and some caramel notes appeared. Overall highly enjoyable, but definitely on the slide and you have to appreciate aged characters to get the same enjoyment I did.
1956 Fontanafredda Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Very pale orange / rose in colour, with a notable brown rim. Not surprising given the age.
It showed a mushroom and medicinal nose, which whilst strong, was less striking than the previous wine (a 1979 Nervi Gattinara). There was also more than a touch of 'farmyard' about it (which I find enjoyable at this sort of level). On the palate it was clear that the acidity was very strong - out of balance without food, which unfortunately we'd finished by the time we cracked this bottle. Overall very pleasant and interesting, albeit fading now.
1978 Giordano Barbaresco - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
A late sub-in and disappointing after the previous wines. On it's own this might have shone more, but would never be a star.
The colour was a relatively deep mahogany and the light subtle nose was mainly tertiary nebbiolo aromas. On the palate the acidity sticks out and there's not enough body to balance it out. Pleasant, but no more and fading.
2001 La Spinetta (Rivetti) Moscato d'Asti Vigneto Biancospino - Italy, Piedmont, Asti, Moscato d'Asti
Our second bottle of this and the fizz was noticebly lighter on this one. Again however it showed how a good Moscato can not just keep, but hold well and even develop a touch of complexity.
The ccolour was a bright golden straw and there was little sign of any fizz left. A typical Moscato nose, but with additional hints of mint and grapefruit. On the palate there was a light petillance. The creamy texture was there again and whilst the sweetness just outweighed the acidity, this is a minor quibble to a very enjoyable wine.
N.V. Cocchi Barolo Chinato - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo Chinato
A pungent nose of fruit & coca-cola showed a touch of spirit. The finish is the big thing in this liquer and it's dry coke/martini like finish is an acquired taste. As with the soft drink 'Chinotto' it's a taste I've certainly acquired.
1998 Cantina del Pino Barbaresco Ovello - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Although used for cooking, the stove top Pigeon breasts cooked over 3 hours with a third of a bottle of this in the marinade was stunning. The first time I've seen how a good wine can make a difference in cooking.
Whilst the beef done in the oven also had this wine, I never got the sauce reduced enough, so the gravy was finished in a pan with some cornflour. It was still lovely, but the extra concentration in the other sauce showed the wine off much better. A cooking lesson learned!
For completeness, the rest of the food plans (from the earlier thread):
Mixed cold starters (prosciutto with Kiwi & chinese gooseberry; Salami (x2); eggplant with tuna, mixed veggies - the latter two from jars because I'm lazy!). Sensible light grazing didn't fill everyone up.
A mid course Pigeon breast in barbaresco + herbs etc (stove top cooked). This was done mostly as a comparison of methods (oven vs. stove top). It was stunning, from dense moist flavour-filled pigeon breast to an intense reduced sauce, this was a rare instance where I'm impressed by my own food. In a restaurant I'd have been singing the praises of the chef (normally I pick faults in what I make).
Topside of beef in Barbaresco (cooked on a very low heat in the oven), plus leek and potato mash (not very Italian I guess, but easier considering we only have 1 oven), plus mixed mushrooms (wild + shop bought) with tarragon and a dash of cream. The Beef needed the gravy (which I had to thicken in a pan) as it had become quite dry. Tasty gravy indeed, but blown away by the stove-top equivalents intensity. Also notes that slow roasting of parsnips is not as good as a shorter cook on a higher heat. The mushroom sauce was again great (the brains of the operation has this as a speciality). Even a non-mushroom eater had a bach at it.
Pudding of a chocolate cheesecake (the brains of the operation made this, so I don't have the precise details), was great and whilst a bit runnier than ideal, went down at a rate of knots.
With coffees / Barolo Chinato some light coconut biscuits
All in all a good evening, but quite a full-on day, which also included a number of phone bids at auction (just one 4 bottle lot for me, as prices were pretty un-enticing).
regards
Ian