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WTN: Fresh....Prince

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Bill Buitenhuys

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WTN: Fresh....Prince

by Bill Buitenhuys » Sat Jan 27, 2007 10:37 pm

Tasting at Andover Liquors with Nancy Peach (Valckenberg Imports) and Prince Constantin zu Salm-Salm (Schloss Wallhausen) pouring the latest Wallhausen riesling releases. Prince Constantin is the 32nd generation of winegrowers in their family line. He’s quite an engaging young man and displays that great passion you might expect as his family spokesperson. His father, Prince Michael, is President of the VDP, the governing body of German wine law.
2004 Schloss Wallhausen Wallhäuser Johannisberg Riesling Großes Gewächs (Nahe) #19 05 Wow, this is damn fine stuff. This is the first Großes Gewächs that I can recall having. If you’re like me and have no idea what that means (until today), a GG is the official designation for a top-tier (usually trocken?) wine from classified sites in Nahe and some other regions. For some reason, this term isn’t used throughout Germany where Erstes Gewachs is used in Rheingau and Erstes Lage is used in the Mosel..go figure. Anyway, this wine rocks. It’s crisp, dry, full of red slate minerality, very complex, and has impeccable balance.
2005 Schloss Wallhausen Riesling Two Princes QbA (Nahe) #03 06 This is Wallhausen’s everyday slurper with a screwcap. Good balance, a hint of sweetness, citrusy, and refreshing.
2005 Schloss Wallhausen Riesling Kabinett (Nahe) #13 06 A blend from their Felseneck and Johannisberg vineyards. Ok, it’s not a kabinett but it’s very good. Interesting green slate minerality from the Felseneck with lots of yellow fruit and plenty of acidity.
2005 Schloss Wallhausen Riesling Spätlese (Nahe) #14 06 100% Felseneck. Very rich, auslese-like in body and sweetness, solid white and yellow fruits, good balance. The high point is the striking slate profile cutting through everything.
2005 Schloss Wallhausen Berg Roxheim Riesling Spätlese (Nahe) #15 06 Whoa. I thought the last wine was rich but this one is even more ramped up. The fruit profile is all tropical (pineapple, mango) and it has a wonderful balance leading to a lengthy, fulfilling crisp finish. Impressive.

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