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WTN: 2004 Groffier Bourgogne

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Dale Williams

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WTN: 2004 Groffier Bourgogne

by Dale Williams » Fri Jan 26, 2007 11:51 am

Betsy made a mushroom lasagna last night. I served a 2004 Robert Groffier Bourgogne that I had picked up earlier in day. Not a fan at first, big and extracted for a Bourgogne yet light on the fruit- tannins and oak are the dominant initial impressions. Enough acidity to work as a dinner wine, but a little disappointing. However, I nursed a couple of glasses through the evening while working on computer and paying bills, and it improved quite a bit. Never shakes off the oakiness completely, but the some real Burgundian earth appears, and the fruit ratchets up- rather big and black for Bourgogne. The oak is more spice and vanilla now, and the tannins smooth out. I think blind at this point I'd guess a village Vosne from a modern producer. I can't say this wine thrilled me, but the quality is there. I think I'll stick my remaining 5 away for a couple years to see how they integrate (while I've found Groffier's bigger wines too oaky, I've liked the Bourgogne before, but always with a little age). If next one is still too much for me, will sacrifice remaining ones at a big party- this is the kind of Burg that appeals to a non-geek crowd. B

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

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