WTN: Labet

Last year, I bought a single bottle of a Domaine Labet Chardonnay from the Jura (Varrons, I think), after hearing the Domaine's praises sung by a merchant. Didn't open it right away, and when I did, not only was it corked, the shop was out of stock, so I replaced it with something else, but had a lingering feeling of disappointment that I hadn't gotten to try the wine. So, last night, I was happy to see a Domaine Labet 2011 Côtes du Jura Chardonnay "Fleurs" on an otherwise rather dull restaurant wine list: not exactly the wine I'd wanted to replace, but close enough. And it was very good. Made in an ouillé rather than a traditional style, this was fresh and bright, lemony and slightly cidery, with only the barest suggestion of anything honeyed. It seemed "natural" in a fresh, no-makeup way, not in a euphemistic, 93-Overnoy way, and went beautifully with a dinner that ranged from curried cauliflower to cacio e pepe to roast chicken.

Last year, I bought a single bottle of a Domaine Labet Chardonnay from the Jura (Varrons, I think), after hearing the Domaine's praises sung by a merchant....

I also heard very good things about them 10-15 years ago from a merchant I trusted in Paris. Bought a few bottles and enjoyed them, but never really got around to exploring in depth. Didn't help that they are not exactly widely available.

But it sounds like you had a lovely and functional bottle.

[David M. Bueker]

Lovely & functional

Sounds like a new sofa.

Not plush enough to be a sofa. Maybe a dining room chair.