2000 Claar Corneauxcopia, Columbia Valley, Washington
Without being consciously aware that I was still hoping to find a truly Bordeauxish homegrown Bordeaux blend that didn't sell out its Washington character with overthetop fruit and alcohol, when I tasted this wine last night I knew I'd found it. Youthful dark reddish black color with notes of damson plum, blackberries, prune, telltale Washingtonian green bell pepper, black pepper, licorice and cigar box. Austere at first, it needed about two hours to reveal the full mid-palate and relaxed, resonating finish. With (thank god) only 13.5% alcohol, it was as good with food (a filet mignon based beef strogonoff on garlic basmati rice) as it was without. Not at peak yet, and there's some evidence here of interesting secondary development to come in bottle. MUST BUY MORE if I can find it. The wine is small production, only about 240 cases of Corneauxcopia were made in each of 00 and 02. They use exclusively French oak, and this wine spent 30 months in barrel.
The winery is part of farmland that also grows apples and asparagus, and which has been in the Claar family for several generations. Their winemaker is one Bruno Corneaux, who grew up Burgundy and studied enology there. I didn't know this when I met the Claars at a local wine event and commented, "Your wine is so French." And it is, especially for Washington wines. Most winemakers here seem afraid their wines won't have enough flavor, the Corneux approach seems more about being careful they don't have too much. I bought a couple bottles on the spot to try again on another occasion--don't always trust myself at those tastathons to not get caught up in the moment. Too bad I didn't trust myself more this one time, I should have come home with a case.