WTN: Pointed Barbs

Fontanafredda 1997 Barbaresco Coste Rubín, $25
The nose is a bit reticent with some black cherry and floral elements. On the palate, there is rich black cherry fruit accented by earth and tar. It’s very balanced with ample texture and structure due to good acidity and tannins. But it really sings with food, becoming more complex and delicious. Near-perfect match with wild mushroom/butternut squash risotto. Two days later, the nose has opened somewhat with more flowers evident. The palate is delightfully smooth and harmonious. I have minimal experience with Barbarescos and had feared this might be modernized — and made worse by the hot vintage — but to my taste this was enjoyable and not marred by excessive oak or overextraction. Importer: Parliament Imports.

Cantine Sant’Agata 2004 Barbera d’Asti Baby, $9
This has great aromas of cherry, flowers, and a little perfume and earth. On the palate, there is vibrant cherry fruit accented by earth, red licorice and herbs, which really come alive with food. It’s light-to-medium-bodied and very smooth with bright acidity and no oak in evidence. Excellent match with penne in a lentil/feta/tomato/black olive sauce. Importer: Siema LLC.

Bruce, you seem to be a Barbera fan so any chance of explaining the differences with d`Alba and d`Asti?
Guess others might want to chip in here. I enjoyed the Open Mike on Calif Barbera so last night I opend a d`Asti from Mauro Gallo. Will post asap.

. . . any chance of explaining the differences with d`Alba and d`Asti?

Nope -- not from me. I usually buy cheaper Barberas as a pleasant, midweek, pizza and pasta type wine, and I see that they are usually from Asti (bottlings such as this one, Prunotto's Fiulot, Icardi's Tabaren and Chiarlo's Le Orme). I haven't had many from Alba though I have a general sense (which may or may not be rooted in reality) that they are a bit more "serious" and a bit more expensive. But don't take my word for it. My "expertise," such as it is, lies more with Loire reds.

Bob,

I find Barbera d'Alba to be somewhat rounder, more black fruit, and Asti to be bright, cranberryish, almost rusty. Monferrato is a third area, which is unfortunately often labelled as Asti, which also produces excellent examples.

They lowered to minimum acidity for the Alba wines, so you will often find that they don't have the zingy quality of Asti.

Bruce.

Thanks for the reply. Loire reds eh? I am a big Vouvray fan, especially Huet. Do not have any reds in the cellar.

Oliver.

That is what I was looking for> d`Asti is underrated in my book. Just opend the La Tribuleira di Mauro Gallo, not a lot of google info here. Very nice wine though, good acidity and red berry fruits. Will post TN.

This is Barbera month here eh.