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WTN: Trousseau, Teroldego, Grüner

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Patchen Markell

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WTN: Trousseau, Teroldego, Grüner

by Patchen Markell » Tue Jul 11, 2017 1:10 pm

A few (un)interesting things from the last few days:

Since we've been cooking with a lot of late spring and early summer produce, we've also been drinking a lot of rosé, white, and light reds. Reached for a Domaine des Marnes Blanches 2015 Côtes du Jura Trousseau to go with charcuterie and found that it was on the burly end of Jura reds: richly floral, in a way that made me think briefly that it seemed like a red cousin of Muscat (I don't think there's actually much relation), some meat and pepper on the palate too, which played well with the salumi, but there's a heavy unctuousness about this that puts me off, and I can't tell whether it's the wine or my July palate. If I had more I'd squirrel it away -- and eventually drink it during a colder month.

Something slightly similar happened with a Harrington 2013 Santa Clara Valley Teroldego, Fratelli Vineyard. This had been my favorite Harrington so far, and after tasting it I went back for four more bottles. It wasn't dissatisfying this time either, nor off-putting: a fine balance between tart brightness and richness, and among earth, fruit, and spice, just as I remembered it -- but somehow, even at a modest 14.1% (for its region), and despite tasting perfectly balanced, it was tiring to finish, though we "suffered" through it. A good lesson (not that one was needed!) in how the experience of wine is affected by the environment in which it's consumed...

Last night, back to white: Weingut Knoll 2015 Wachau Grüner Veltliner Smaragd, Ried Schütt. Outstandingly intense and focused, lime juice and pith, ripe but mildly vegetal midpalate, and a very long, complex, saline-and-pepper finish. Racy for its size, which is something I find myself particularly drawn to. Along with the Ingrid Groiss drunk recently this is another really terrific 2015 GV, of which, in this case, I'm lucky to have a few more!
cheers, Patchen
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TomHill

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HeyHeyHey....

by TomHill » Tue Jul 11, 2017 1:25 pm

Patchen Markell wrote:A few (un)interesting things from the last few days:

Since we've been cooking with a lot of late spring and early summer produce, we've also been drinking a lot of rosé, white, and light reds. Reached for a Domaine des Marnes Blanches 2015 Côtes du Jura Trousseau to go with charcuterie and found that it was on the burly end of Jura reds: richly floral, in a way that made me think briefly that it seemed like a red cousin of Muscat (I don't think there's actually much relation), some meat and pepper on the palate too, which played well with the salumi, but there's a heavy unctuousness about this that puts me off, and I can't tell whether it's the wine or my July palate. If I had more I'd squirrel it away -- and eventually drink it during a colder month.

Something slightly similar happened with a Harrington 2013 Santa Clara Valley Teroldego, Fratelli Vineyard. This had been my favorite Harrington so far, and after tasting it I went back for four more bottles. It wasn't dissatisfying this time either, nor off-putting: a fine balance between tart brightness and richness, and among earth, fruit, and spice, just as I remembered it -- but somehow, even at a modest 14.1% (for its region), and despite tasting perfectly balanced, it was tiring to finish, though we "suffered" through it. A good lesson (not that one was needed!) in how the experience of wine is affected by the environment in which it's consumed...

Last night, back to white: Weingut Knoll 2015 Wachau Grüner Veltliner Smaragd, Ried Schütt. Outstandingly intense and focused, lime juice and pith, ripe but mildly vegetal midpalate, and a very long, complex, saline-and-pepper finish. Racy for its size, which is something I find myself particularly drawn to. Along with the Ingrid Groiss drunk recently this is another really terrific 2015 GV, of which, in this case, I'm lucky to have a few more!


HeyHeyHey...Patchen....I'm the only one around here that's allowed to drink these obscure wines. :roll:

It sounds like you're looking for lighter summertime reds. The Harrington Mission '15 or (better yet) '16 would be
good choices. Also his latest Croatina. Or EdStJ Bone-Jolly.

Glad you discovered IngridGroiss wines. Some of my favorite from Austria.

Do you ever get the local charcuterie there from 'Nduja or WestLoop?? Good stuff.
Tom
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Patchen Markell

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Re: WTN: Trousseau, Teroldego, Grüner

by Patchen Markell » Tue Jul 11, 2017 1:38 pm

Thanks, Tom -- I have it in mind to get out to the local shop that carries Harrington very soon, so I'll look for those, neither of which I've tried before. Meanwhile, yup, I've got some ESJ Bone-Jolly around (not to mention Beaujolais and Loire Gamay). It's not even so much that I need summer reds to be "light" per se as that I want them to be juicy and bright and "slurpable." I have a Cantine Valpane Ruché in the queue that might be just the thing.

Meanwhile, there's a local shop that has a surprisingly large proportion of its small stock devoted to Eastern European wines -- not just Hungary and Croatia and Slovenia, but even Bulgaria, IIRC. (This is perhaps 10 bottles total, but still.) I might have to try some of these, in which case I'll really risk stepping on your toes! :D
cheers, Patchen

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