Diane made cauliflower soup with truffle oil and toasted gruyere cheese sandwiches for lunch and I opened a 2005 Vatan, Sancerre Clos la Néore, which went very well with the meal. The wine has a reticent nose of grapefruit and cut grass but is more potent in the mouth with similar flavors, good depth, a bright but round delivery and a medium length, peppery finish. This is more delicate and classy than Didier Dageneau’s wines but has the same intensity and concentration; we both enjoyed it. Its 12.5% alcohol, imported by Wine Cellars, Ltd. and about $42, which is beyond my limit for sauvignon, no matter the quality.
For dinner, Diane grilled some wild salmon rare and dressed it with a little pesto and served a side of pasta with pine nuts. Accompanying, the 2000 Belle Pente, Pinot Noir Murto Vineyard, was really strong. Lots of bottle bouquet here and a developed and maturing nose and palate with underbrush notes, black fruit, and a brown sugar edge without any of the sweetness of sugar. A fine pairing and a wine that still has a few years to peak but one that is pretty arresting and very complex even now. This carries 13.7% alcohol and sold at release for about $35; more than worth that price considering what else one can buy these days for the same tariff.
We also tried a couple of wines that had been open awhile:
The 2004 Martínsancho, Rueda was a grapefruit bomb on day three with lots of that fruit spread liberally on the nose and palate with good texture, depth and sustain. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Classical Wines and about $16; I’d pay that agin.
The 2001 Giacosa, Nebbilol d’Alba, Valmaggiore on day four was perfect with a dusty nose and plenty of nebbiolo power on the palate. 13% alcohol, imported by Winebow and about $20 on release; I’d buy all I could get at that price.
The 2000 Belle Pente, Pinot Noir Murto Vnyd. was even more open and complex than on day one with lots of earthy, forest scents and flavors and that molasses note on the palate that seems to be its grounding flavor. 13.7% alcohol and better on day two than when first opened.
The 2001 Edmunds St. John, Los Robles Viejos is so much more open and inviting on day three that it barely resembles the wine upon opening; rich, deep and nuanced, this wine will only get better with time in the cellar. 14.2% alcohol and about $25; more than worth the price.
Lastly, the 1990 Sullivan, Cabernet Sauvignon was out of this world. Powerful but balanced throughout, this brings solid fruit, terrific acidity and considerable length to Rutherford Bench Cabernet at 16 years of age. Delightful with aged sheep’s milk cheese and crackers, and damn good on its own. 13.2% alcohol and about $35 on release; I’d buy this again at that price.
Best, Jim
