It's not often that you come across something on the shelf that you've never heard of before, so when finding a bottling of the rare grape Chatus on clearance, I snatched it. Some research reveals that it is grown only in the Ardeche district of the Rhone, and came close to extinction before efforts were made to revive it in the 90s. Only a handful of producers make it.
Domaine du Grangeon, Chatus, Coteaux de L’Ardeche 2011
Deep ruby. Exceptional nose, dense, rich, and somewhat heady, with warm, fragrant fruit: generous blackberry and black currant, a touch of sweet barnyard, pine forest, mint and sage, hints of olive and mushroom, all on top of sweet dark earth with a touch of dark chocolate. Similar personality on the palate, with the addition of notes of plum and blueberry, and framed by the minty herb and earth/chocolate notes; full bodied and dense, with a succulent but somewhat astringent texture, and with generous acid tone and substantial tannic structure. In short, an impressive and structured beast of wine that I seems a bit too young still. I’d give it a few more years or an hour decant. Should last for at least another 5 years, perhaps up to 10. The closest comparison I can give for this rare grape is Norton meets Merlot, though this wine is definitely Rhone-ish in character. Only 200 cases produced. 3 Stars [3/26/17]
And here are a two very nice everyday things.
Foris, Chardonnay, Rogue Valley 2013
Light platinum yellow. Very nice nose, abundant orange with a touch of orange blossom, ripe pome and stone fruits, with a nice touch of oak, and salty/chalky mineral. On the palate, ripe, rich pear, peach and even a touch of plum, all with prominent sweet orange notes, a very attractive note of oak, and generous calciferous (lovely geeky word that) mineral depth. Full bodied, with a ripe and sweet texture, but with darker fruit notes and generous orangey acidity providing excellent depth and balance. Somewhat like a very ripe Chablis, with its fine acid and mineral; on day 2 the ripeness has pulled back and it is even more Chablis-like. Very, very attractive, this is really quite exceptional for the low-teens price point. Drink over the next 3 - 5 years. 3 Stars [3/31/17]
Siglo, Crianza, Rioja 2012
Dark ruby/garnet. Very nice nose, rich and dense with lots of mineral and earth. On the nose and palate, a personality of black cherry, blackberry, and plum, with suede, cigar tobacco, and chocolatey earth, lots of mineral, and substantial oak influence. Medium-full bodied, understated in texture but at the same time rich with good density, and with generous acid tone. A highly traditional Rioja, with its leather and oak driven personality. Approaching full maturity, drink over the next few years. 3 Stars [4/12/17]