WTN: Côte du Capuchin

Cruse Wine Company 2015 California Red Wine, "Monkey Jacket." 12.2%. $30. A mix of Valdiguié from Calistoga, Tannat from Alder Springs in Mendocino, and a field blend of unspecified reds from Eaglepoint Ranch in Mendocino. This is great juice. Starts off reminiscent of a juicy, darker-fruited, structured Gamay, but picks up momentum in the mouth and finishes tannic and peppery. This is remarkably complex, and while it makes a terrific weeknight red now, I am surprised (I mean, it's Valdiguié!) to find myself believing it will do interesting things with 7-10 years of bottle age.

C`mon..let me take you on a sea cruise!!

Valdigooo-ee, ooo-ee baby!

Frankie Ford is a little before my time, but my father raised me right.

[David M. Bueker]

Cruse is a winery I struggle with. I seem to like Michael's sparkling efforts (Ultramarine) more than most people, but like his still wines less.