Last Monday I took the train down to speak at a dinner of the International Business and Wine Society. Dinner was at Jungsik in Tribeca, and was spectacular.
Canapes kept circulating (I was particularly fond of the oysters in a squid ink pasta crust, veal tartare cornets, tiny quiche with caviar, fried chicken) along with a blind Champagne, which didn’t thrill me- a touch soft, maybe a little closed, it was the 2006 Charles Heidsieck Champagne. John said he had liked more before, wondered if different disgorgement. I did a speech (more stumbly than usual) and a Q&A on the charity I run, then John Gilman led a great informative discussion of the wines of Galicia (with history dating back to the Romans). An Albarino, a Godello, and three RIbera Sacras red (I liked all, but wasn’t taking contemporaneous notes till dinner).
2013 Albarino- Adega Rozas (Rías Biaxas)
Zippy, citrus, bright and fun. Some people thought simple, I thought quite complex! B+
2014 Godello- Cividade (Ribeira Sacra- Amandi, Sil River)
Young, citrus, a waxy/wooly note reminiscent of Chenin. B+/B
2014 Decima Mencía- Jose Manuel Rodríguez (Ribeira Sacra- Amandi, Sil River)
Of the reds, this most fit my ideal of Mencia. Peppery, smoky, spicy over red berry fruit, B+/A-
2013 Ora et Labora Mencía- Roberto Regal (Ribeira Sacra- Miño River)
More Bordeaux-y, cassis and coffee, good length B/B+
2011 Vina Cazoga “Don Diego” Mencía- Jorge Carnero (Ribeira Sacra- Amandi)
Chambolle comes to Ribera Sacra. Black cherry, spice, earth, medium bodied and elegant. Good but with potential as well A-
All of these wines were worth buying at their price point.
To table for an excellent dinner. The first course (Bibim) had tomato gelee, prosciutto, basil cream and much more. Fine match with the Albarinos.
2013 Lagar de Broullon Albarino
Fresh, saline, Briords-like. B+/A-
2010 Cabaleiro do Val “Special Selection Cepas Vellas” Albarino
Full, balanced, a leesy nuttiness, good length. A-
Next course was a perfect 2 week dry aged duck breast, with a pickled daikon side -another great wine match
1982 CVNE “Imperial” Rioja Gran Reserva
Red cherries and raspberries, hint of coconut, spice. Tasty in a very straightforward way. B+
1976 Lopez de Heredia “Tondonia” Rioja Gran Reserva
Red and black cherry, earth, coffee, orange zest. Though orange zest and coffee don’t sound Burgundian, I thought this was very like a fine Vosne GC. Great showing. A/A-
Perfect waygu short ribs
1989 Vega Sicilia Unico
Red cherries, cassis, tobacco, and earth, young, would be a good ringer for RB or Graves Bordeaux, young and fine,.B+
1970 Vega Sicilia Unico
Shocking young. Dark berry fruit, saddle leather, cedar, earth. Quite complex, plenty of structure. A-/A.
I admit to being a bit of an Unico sceptic but this might have converted me.
I skipped dessert but not the dessert wine. 1902 Solera PX from Osbourne was figgy, with caramel, cocoa, toffe, and coffee notes. Intensely sweet and dense. I’m not a sherry guy, but this was interesting. B/B+
Overall wine and food quality was outstanding, service impeccable, company quite fun. Kudos to Omar for a great job coordinating the food and wine, pretty much perfect matching. John was his usual erudite self - really expansive on the history and terroir of the Galician wines.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.