For the January meeting of SOBER (Several Oenophiles Being Extremely Rambunctious) Mark Golodetz arranged a feast at the excellent Central Seafood in Hartsdale. This was a "bring the spouse/date and kids" event, but Betsy was in NC for concerts. A fine time was had by all, however, with excellent food, bubbly, and company. The restuarant did a fine job, with at least 15 courses, including assorted dim sum, lobster, crab, shrimp.oysters (biggest I've ever seen) in black bean sauce, halibut, duck, chicken, pork chops, baby bok choy, and more. I think the consensus favorite dish was probably the jalapeno shrimp (not really spicy, but a great combo with the bigger bubblies). The food was chosen as a match to Champagne, it did well, especially with the rosés.
(note: my tastes in Champagne don't seem to mesh with the majority, and certainly didn't last night. While all notes are subjective, take these with an extra grain- nay, an extra Dead Sea of salt. No one else who attended would agree!)
2000 Huet Vouray Petillant
My favorite alternative to Champagne. Baked apple flavors with a chalky minerality on the finish. Some find a metallic note, but I don't. Young, but tasty. B+
NV Mont-Ferrant Rosé
Quite a nice cava, with a rather amazing deep color. Crushed berry flavors, nice length for the level, very food friendly. B+/B
Taittinger "Nocture" Sec Champagne
Someone had said this should be dessert, but I was glad it was served where it was. It's just a tad sweet (I thought sec was sweeter than Extra Dry, but to my tastes this is drier than say Moet White Star), but with good acidity. Lemon and apple fruit. Matched well with the shark fin dumpling. I liked, but not enough to put on a buy list (think others liked more than I). B
1988 Lasalle Blanc de Blancs
Nose is a rather complex melange of white fruit, vanilla, and hazelnut, But I found this a little disappointing and short on palate. Others liked far better. B/B-
Taittinger "Brut Prestige" Rosé Champagne
I think this was the clearest case where I liked more than table. For a NV pink bubbly I thought this was a delightful combination of lightness and length. Pretty red berries, toasted brioche, a bit of mineral. One of the better values B+/A-
1998 Heidseick Diamant Rosé(note" I'm not sure which of the 2 Heidseick houses this is)
Cool looking bottle, this rosé is a rather funny peachy color. Orange, lime zest, and a nice whiff of smoke. B+
1982 Krug
As a fan of lighter styled Champagne, Krug has never been a favorite. This didn't change that, but I really felt that I could see what the attraction was, even if I didn't share it. Nutty, with apple/"Brown Betty" flavors, spice, and very done Parker House rolls. Lots of complexity, just not my style (though I liked this better than the 1990). B
1990 Veuve Cliquot "La Grande Dame"
I initially liked better than its Krug flightmate, but a revisit didn't bear that out. The fruit seemed quite fresh, and there was a delectable doughy note at first. But my second taste seemed a bit pedestrian for a tete de cuvee, I liked but wasn't wowwed. B
1998 Billecart-Salmon "Cuvee Elisabeth Salmon" Rose Champagne
I admit to a prejudice towards the Champagne I brought. After it turned out I had drunk the wine I had intended to bring ('90 Pol Roger rose), I only had one cellared wine that seemed to be up to the level needed. But I didn't like that wine ('96 La Grande Dame) very much on a previous taste, so went out and splurged to get this because the 1989 version was my favorite rosé Champagne ever. This was only a quarter step behind the '89, with dried cherry and citrus zest, chalk, and buttermilk biscuits. Elegant, lively, and lovely. A-
1999 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rose
I also liked this a lot. Again, a combination of power and delicacy I really liked. Cranapple and cherry flavors, Grandma's in the kitchen baking yeast rolls. A-/B+
Very fun night, if only Betsy could have attended. Thanks to Mark for organizing!
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
