Andrea was halfway around the world for work this week -- in Jo'burg, so I hope I'll get some stories of excellent Chenin Blanc and Pinotage when she gets home (and, er, after she wakes up) -- so I got to drink stuff I thought she wouldn't miss, or, at least, of which we have >1. It didn't make for the most electric drinking week, but it wasn't totally uninteresting, especially on the night I took myself out to dinner (@ Nico Osteria).
Weingut Keller 2014 Riesling trocken "Von der Fels." More giving than the first bottle several months ago, though still relatively austere. Some appealing stone-fruit richness begins to emerge from behind the veil of acid on the second night, giving the wine a nice swoop. I'll hold the last bottle.
François Pinon 2002 Vouvray "Tradition." Not oxidized, indeed still shows some primary fruit on first opening, though cushioned on all sides by sweet wool and spice. Not profound, but surprisingly vibrant and interesting for a wine that hadn't seemed like much in its youth.
Stefano Massone 2015 Gavi. (By the glass, from a freshly opened bottle). Not sure whether this was the Masera or the San Cristofero but I'd guess the former. Delicious, ripe lemon, minerals, and herbs, fantastic with a course of mackerel and bream crudo. Bonus: it's half the price of the La Scolca Black Label that's also on this by-the-glass list.
Domaine Ciringa 2013 Štajerska Slovenija Sauvignon Blanc, "Fosilini Breg." (By the glass.) Stunning: structured; intense minerality suspended along a line between the poles of Sauvignon greenness and barely-ripe stone fruit. One of the most compelling Sauvignon Blancs I've had in some time.
Calabretta IGT Sicilia Nerello Mascalese "Vecchie Vigne." (By the glass!) This was listed as "NV" on the wine list, though I wonder; Polaner's website suggests the current release is a 2006 vintage. Who cares? This is delicious: sweet, almost Gamay-like strawberry fruit laced with truffle and earth, an amazing push-and-pull between brightness and depth, and all as precise and delicate as a dancer. Bless them for pouring this by the glass; now I want to go back with A and build a meal around a bottle.
Unti 2013 Dry Creek Valley Syrah, "Benchland Tradizionale." This is, I suppose, good in its style, and there's some interesting dark fruit lurking under there somewhere (along with some not unpleasant funk) but it's so hopped up on wood that I can't really enjoy it. I have a few more bottles of this; maybe in ten years the wood will have integrated, but I'm not optimistic. I'll stick with Mick's Italian varietals and blends (and his Zinfandel), which I find so much more balanced and appealing than this. Indeed, I remain puzzled why the house style seems so different across different parts of the portfolio.
Scherrer 2013 Alexander Valley Zinfandel, "Old and Mature Vines." That's more like it. Tight at first, but brambly and dark fruit emerges with time, and on the second night this has unfolded into what feels like its full richness, with berry liqueur accented by anise and wood-spice. This should be decanted if consumed now, and should age well.
Bisson 2011 IGT Colline del Genovesato "Il Granaccio." Something funky about this bottle at first, a little mercaptan, but it blows off pretty quickly and the underlying wine turns out to be better than I remember; I'd thought of it as thin and tart but this has a core of ripe Grenache fruit, carried along by solid acidity, and finishing earthy. I won't seek out more, but as taking one for the team goes, that was pretty painless. (We'll see if it has any life left tonight.)
