I couldn’t face too much spitting, so jumped on train to Croton for a Cotatfest (Francois). There were 4 others on same train, we were met at station by Sasha in a small SUV, I rode in the back on the short ride to John’s.
Two tables were set up, some nice cheeses and pates were out, a little bit of charcuterie as well. A greeting wine was the 2015 Corbillieres Sauvignon Touraine. This is one worth looking for- light and clean SB fruit in a taut frame- lemony with floral notes and a hint of grass, good depth, really excellent for a Touraine SB. B++
As folks gathered we got down to business. John circulated some excellent gravlax on toast points with creme fraiche - I ate way more than my share.
Flight # 1
2012 Francois Cotat “Monts Damnes” Sancerre
Tight and a little funky at first, opens up, pit fruits and herb. B+
2012 Francois Cotat “Grande Cote ” Sancerre
Quite noticeable sweetness, atypical but quite tasty, full but hard to think of as Sancerre. B/B+
2011 Francois Cotat “Monts Damnes” Sancerre
There’s some structure there although the acids seem softer than I expect on palate, doesn’t have the depth of most wines this night (some others disagreed). B
Flight # 2
2008 Francois Cotat “Monts Damnes” Sancerre
Lots of cut and verve, minerally, strong finish, yellow fruits and herbs. A-
2008 Francois Cotat “Grande Cote ” Sancerre
Most people preferred, and I quite liked, but thought the acids weren’t as nervy as the MD. B+/A-
Flight # 3
2008 Francois Cotat Sancerre Rose
Red fruit, herbs and minerals, long and lively. A-/B+
2007 Francois Cotat Sancerre Rose
Perceptible RS, full, good acids, not my favorite now though people with more experience with Cotat rose think it will age beautifully and the perception of sugar will lessen. For me this night B/B+
2006 Francois Cotat Sancerre Rose
Very floral, less depth on palate, in comparison a bit dilute, a little nuttiness. B
(someone says this perks up over time, but I didn’t revisit)
Flight # 4
2005 Francois Cotat “Monts Damnes” Sancerre
These are all big wines, but this is one where I find just too much. A touch alcoholic and blowsy, tropical fruit, though hint of redemption in a nice minerally finish. B-
2005 Francois Cotat “Culs de Beaujeau ” Sancerre
Much more lithe- ripe fruit but with a squirt of lemon, some earth and herbs. B+/A-
2005 Francois Cotat “Grande Cote ” Sancerre
Ripe, full, but with enough acid to balance, a hint of sugar, apricot and peach fruit. B+
Flight # 5 (these were very cold and needed to warm a bit to fill out)
2002 Francois Cotat Sancerre Rose
Floral, perfumed, red fruited with honeysuckle and chalk. B+/A-
2003 Francois Cotat Sancerre Rose
Very divisive. With vintage I was expecting to not like, but while quite ripe I thought there was plenty of structure underneath. A red in rose clothing. Other table dumped! B+
Flight # 6
2004 Francois Cotat “Monts Damnes” Sancerre
Perfumed, bright, elegant and long. Yellow fruits, chalk, citrus zest, complete. Just wow, A-/A
2004 Francois Cotat “Grande Cote ” Sancerre
If it wasn’t next to Monts Damnes would have been my favorite so far. Herby, long, balanced. A-
2002 Thomas-Labaille Sancerre
VA and maderized notes on notes, palate is better at first, but on revisiting the shoe polish and cider notes make it to palate. Sure it was good in its day.
Flight # 7
2004 Francois Cotat Sancerre Rose
Cathleen said spritz and I thought just sharper acids on initial attack but on retaste it was certainly there. I thought this opened beautifully and has a future, even if a slightly spritzy one. B+/A-
2000 Francois Cotat Sancerre Rose
Mature, waxy, cranberry fruit and earth, drink up,. B
Flight # 8
1999 Francois Cotat “Monts Damnes” Sancerre
Nice bright fruit, good acid, lots of green herb, tangy. A-
1999 Francois Cotat “Grande Cote ” Sancerre
RS that I didn’t get in the MD, though it’s well balanced by acids and is part of a full integrated package. B+
1989 Francois Cotat “Monts Damnes” Sancerre
Mature but not fading, pear fruit and a little blood orange, just a hint of almonds, very lively for 28 year old SB! Good length. I love ‘89 Loire in almost every form. A-
John sent out a lovely shrimp and avocado dish, followed by mussels as we progressed to other wines and revisits.
2002.6 (roughly) F. Cotat Monts Clos la Neore
OK, my goof of the month. I was turned talking to Cathleen and she offered me rest of her 1999
Monts Damnes. I said sure and took an poured into my left glass. Hmmm, who knew I had so much left from my initial pour? I hear Tim pour Cathleen the 2005 Vatan, and then he walks away. Why didn’t I get any? Oh wait, maybe he did pour for me. Damn (Damnes)! Figure 60% Vatan 40% Cotat. OK, I have to say the blend is excellent, the mintiness of the Vatan playing well with the other green herbs from the Cotat.
2005 Vatan Sancerre
I got a small pour from end of bottle later- minty, ripe but fairly vigorous, B+
2002 Vatan Sancerre
I know I got this, but can’t read my note (“just not _________”)
and just remember as a disappointment.
2006 Guiberteau “Breze” Saumur Blanc
This is quite tasty and in a good place. Waxy, good acids, almost a white Rioja coconut note, long minerally finish B+/A-
2008 Clos Rougeard “Clos” Saumur-Champigny
Bright raspberry and cranberry fruit, touch of pine needle, focused and intense. A-/B+
2006 Rougeard “Clos” Saumur-Champigny
Black cherries, cocoa, perfumed, long. A-
There was a blind red going round but Cathleen offered me a ride home, I knew there was more coming, but a ride trumped more wine.
Great night. The vast majority of the wines came from the cellar of a truly special wine lover who has passed away. Good crowd with strong opinions (my observations were only my own, and some would disagree strongly about many wines). Nice to see some old friends and meet people who were only names before. Thanks to John and Sasha for organizing.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.