2005 Château Haut-Bergey - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan (2/5/2017)
Depending on where you look there are wildly varying opinions on the current state and future promise of this wine. After opening a bottle to pair with dinner (beef stew) I think it is in a transition phase, where the showy, up-front fruit and oak has faded, but the aged elements have not yet fully developed.
The first small pour was quite austere. I could have seen someone thinking the wine had gone over the hill. As time went on it opened up. It never became fruity, but it gained depth. It showed a core of substance that was equal to the core of structure - matter and anti-matter in balance.
I would advise putting this wine away to allow more aged character to emerge. It will never be showy or hedonistic, but it seems (benefit of the doubt here) to have sufficient stuffing to allow for it to be a more interesting older wine than it is as an "adolescent" wine.