2015 Weingut Spreitzer Winkeler Jesuitengarten Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Rheingau (1/30/2017)
It's been great to watch the revival of the Rheingau, as Robert Weil, then Johannes Leitz and then the Spreitzer brothers (among others) breathed life into what had become a nearly dead region as the "great estates" fell into mediocrity. This bottle was another reminder of the ascendency of the Spreitzers. Lush but statuesque, the wine showed all the Rheingau power that would fit in a bottle, managing its sweetness with fine acidity, a firm palate presence and great depth of flavor. It had a commanding presence, more handsome than pretty, and provoked contemplation. I tried to just sip on it as I was preparing dinner, and it would not have it. I had to pay attention. Great wine does that. It asks us to pay attention. It questions our commitment, and only gives up its secrets if we are willing to pay the proper respect.