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Florida Jim

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Wines with food

by Florida Jim » Sat Jan 13, 2007 2:11 pm

2002 Triacca, Valtelina Superiore Sassela:
We had this with porcini risotto and could not have done better; lovely nebbiolo aromatics, mostly in the upper register but more gutsy and complex on the palate; medium length finish. The complexity of this wine, even without food, was its greatest draw and the pairing made it even better. 13% alcohol, imported by Rosenthal and about $22; although this was a gift I’d certainly buy it at that price.

2005 Dom. Vissoux, Fleurie Poncie:
A broad shouldered, well-concentrated Fleurie but Fleurie without question; bigger than most wines from this dirt but smooth with a worsted texture, good depth and lots of sweet tannin. I wish I had bought more – I really love this wine and think it the best of the ’05 Beaujolais Cru wines I’ve tried; at least right now. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Weygandt-Metzler and about $20; I’d buy more at that price.

2004 Rhys, Chardonnay Santa Cruz Mountains:
Corked. What a disappointment!

2005 Dom. du Clos Naudin (Foreau), Vouvray Sec:
Quince, stone and hints of smoke with terrific acidity and smooth textures; bright, layered and utterly of its place. Who does dry Vouvray better? Excellent with pasta and veggies. 13.2% alcohol, imported by Rosenthal and about $29; pretty steep but good wine.

2005 Clos de la Roilette (Coudert), Fleurie:
Closed upon opening; with a day on the counter (with stopper) it shows solid cherry and earth tones on the nose (and is identifiable as Fleurie) but fails to deliver much fruit on the palate; good structure, acidity and tannin, some fruit but pretty closed at the moment; lots of future but I’ll not open another for a year or so. Good with grilled chicken. 13% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $19; I’d buy it again at that price.

2005 Dom. des Roches Neuves (Thierry Germain), Saumur-Champigny:
Immense cabernet franc that is not even worth a sip the first day open; on the second day it is fit for a king’s table of wild boar and other game dishes; captivating and expansive on the nose it is the aroma of Saumur; powerful and very concentrated in the mouth with ripe cab. franc flavors, herb hints and tooth-staining sustain. Two bottles of flavor in one and nothing out of place – stunning wine. About $25, imported by Jon-David Headrick and I will go buy a couple to store for my seventieth birthday. Whoa!

Best, Jim
Jim Cowan
Cowan Cellars

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