Old Vine Cafe, Lambrusco, Nerello

A couple of winners, for entirely different reasons, from entirely different places, while dining at the Old Vine Cafe in Costa Mesa.

Rocaforte Dry Lambrusco, Emilia-Romagna, Italy
It didn’t take long to pick this one out. It is such a shame that Americans were taught to believe that Riunite and Cella were representative of the true delights of Emilia-Romagna reds. This Rocaforte is a perfect starter wine, slightly fizzy, dry, grapey-fresh and lively on the palate, and a bargain at $11!


When the place, the food, the people come together this well, a sophisticated and flexible red with both elegance and oomph is required. We flirted with a lovely Breton Cabernet Franc from the Loire, but the Calabretta turned out to be a perfect choice.

Calabretta Etna Rosso DOC, V.Q.P.R.D., 2001, Sicily
Still tannic on opening but slowly losing its hard grip and grit, opening steadily through the evening, harmonizing with each and every savory dish, stepping up to the eggplant, mushrooms, sausage, tomato, and chewy pappardelle, the wine was astonishing. Ir noticeably evolved throughout the evening, and charmed through every evolution.

The Calabretta stirred fond memories of standing in the Greco-Roman theater in Taormina looking over the vast sweep of slope with Mt. Etna rising majestically in the background. This wine, a combination of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappucino grapes, reflects that majesty nicely.

We ended with ever more tiny sips from the dregs of the glass to prolong the pleasure of the evening, sighed when it was all gone, and slowly gathered ourselves to trundle off to our beds.

Great notes! Did you find that the Nerello Cappucino gave the Calabretta an unpleasant milkiness, though?

Great notes! Did you find that the Nerello Cappucino gave the Calabretta an unpleasant milkiness, though?

Not at all. Once I calabretted it in I didn't even notice it.

I will admit when I saw the name of this grape I did have a picture of grape clusters with tiny little cowls.

So I investigated. Turns out the name of the grape is actually 'nerello capuccio'. Secondary nerello used primarily for blending with the mascalese. So named because the leaves tend to furl around the grape like a hood.

Couldn't resist going with the 'nerello cappucino' though.

The Calabretta 2001 was impressive. Somewhere in the center of the triangle of Burgundy Pinot, Barolo Nebbiolo and Northern Rhone Syrah. Graciously flexible with the variety of savory tastes on the table. Kept changing throughout the extended meal in the most fascinating ways---much as a fine PN can do, but without the fragile delicacy of that grape. Had the quietly profound aromatic resonance of nicely aged Barolo. And the meaty quality of a Cote Rotie. Compelling wine.