Buisson-Charles 2014 Bourgogne-Chardonnay "Hautes Coutures." Juicy and fresh, this is a sloppy puppy to the icy kitten of Chablis, but it's fun to romp with: wood is present but only barely, ripe apple fruit with a slightly minerally finish, has some depth but still feels light on its toes. The whole package is a tasty reminder that Chardonnay isn't just a blank canvas but does have varietal character of its own, and a good one.
Robert Chevillon 2002 Nuits-St.-Georges "Roncières." This is in a great spot now, coasting along that ridge between youth and age, vibrant but velvety, persistent cherry fruit and leathery funk. Couldn't have asked more from it.
Jean-Marc Burgaud 2013 Morgon "Côte du Py." Surprisingly accessible for a site I expected to be tightly wound. Shows bright raspberries, rocks, and a little baking-spice at first, after a quick decant a lot more earth mushroom came out of hiding. Lovely.
Francesco Rinaldi 2015 Gavi. I rarely drink Gavi but kind of fell for a La Scolca Black Label and so I'm trying to find others I enjoy. This is good and well-made, but there's a floral edge to the nose and on the palate that I don't love, and which I don't recall from the Scolca, so I probably wouldn't buy it again. Don't know whether that's typical for Cortese or not.
Feudi di San Gregorio 2010 Taurasi. Much too young. Very reticent, dark fruit with some licorice notes, becomes a bit more giving after a vigorous decant, and seems to have the balance and the components to turn into something interesting, but at the moment it's mostly potential.
Casaloste 2010 Chianti Classico. I don't know why, but Casaloste just seems to have a depth -- a combination of typical bright-tart Sangiovese fruit and deeper, darker notes, almost tarry and chocolatey, but not obviously from barrel treatment -- that I don't find in many of my other regular CC's. $22, so at the high end of my usual range for CC's, but well worth it.
Bonterra 2003 Lake County Muscat, Bartolucci Vineyard (375ml). This was a gift from Hoke, who, if I recall correctly, told me to tuck it away for a couple of years. That was in 2004. And you know what? It's held up very nicely. Surprisingly delicate, lemon-blossom and a touch of spice, showing some softness around the edges and some marmalade in the midpalate that strike me as signs of age, but it's not over the hill, and makes for a refreshing finale to tonight's meal. (Thanks, Hoke!)
