by Paul Winalski » Wed Jan 10, 2007 1:47 am
The great Bordeaux estates harvest their vineyards, crush the grapes, and ferment them. The wine ends up being fermented in several separate vats, and aged in sometimes hundreds of separate barrels. No two barrels are going to develop quite the same. In the end, the cellarmaster has to decide the fates of the various barrels and lots:
Some will be blended into the final vat(s) that make up the Grand Vin on which the Chateau bases its reputation.
Some will be deemed not up to the standard of the Grand Vin. Of this, some get sold off to the negociant trade, usually under a contract that says the negociant can't advertise where the wine came from. Some estates keep other wines deemed not good engough for the Grand Vin to blend for their so-called second wine.
So the second wine is, by definition, made from stuff that's not good enough to be in the estate's Grand Vin. So how good is it, really? Well, it depends a lot on why it was rejected for the Grand Vin. In really successful vintages, the top estates generally end up splitting hairs, and the second wine can be almost as good as the Grand Vin. But in years where there were problems, such as when rampant rot strikes, the estate may put all the healthy grapes into the Grand Vin, and the second wine gets all the bad stuff. Or in this case the estate may choose not to make the second wine, and to sell off the failures to the negociant trade. Or just send it to Brussels for distillation and collect the farm subsidy.
As Dale Williams pointed out, the second labels in Bordeaux are no longer the bargains that they once were. To the contrary--you generally pay a premium for the Grand Vin's hand-me-downs and mistakes, whereas you could get a better wine with the Grand Vin from an estate that doesn't have the premium name.
-Paul W.