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WTN: Why didn't anybody tell me...

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Patchen Markell

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WTN: Why didn't anybody tell me...

by Patchen Markell » Thu Aug 04, 2016 6:58 am

...about Jurançon Sec till now?

The other day, with our supply of everyday whites dwindling, I stopped by a small local shop to pick up a bottle or two but was mostly uninspired by what I saw. But then I noticed a Domaine Cauhapé 2014 Jurançon Sec, "Chant des Vignes", for $16. Pretty sure I've never had any Jurançon at all, dry or sweet; didn't know what the grapes would be till I read the back of the bottle (Gros Manseng 60%, Camaralet 40%); in fact, the whole southwest of France is a bit of a mystery to me. So, I thought, what the hell, let's give it a shot.

And man, is that good! What I especially like about it is how it combines opposites: it's weightier than the crisp, steely whites I often drink (and think of myself as preferring), with a body edging closer to that of a ripe Gewurztraminer, but somehow feels light and summery rather than unctuous or heavy. Similarly, it's got ripe fruit characteristics (stone fruit and musk melon especially) but also a streak of resiny greenness running through it that plays a role not unlike what "minerality" does in other whites, keeping the riper flavors taut and focused. Floral, but in a nice peach-blossomy rather than honeysuckle way.

I'm not sure whether I just stumbled across one of the better wines in the appellation, or whether it just turns out that Gros Manseng speaks to me, but either way, I'm going back for more.
cheers, Patchen
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Why didn't anybody tell me...

by David M. Bueker » Thu Aug 04, 2016 7:07 am

It's that resiny element that I do not like about the wines. Glad you enjoyed it though. You are clearly a better hipster than I am. ;)
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Tim York

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Re: WTN: Why didn't anybody tell me...

by Tim York » Thu Aug 04, 2016 8:12 am

I'm a big fan of Jurançon. You describe its charms well though I don't recognise in most which have come my way that resiny greenness, to which you refer and which David dislikes. IMO the best producers are Camin Larredya, Lapeyre and Charles Hours and I always snap up one or two bottles of these when I see them.

The main grape varieties are Gros & Petit Manseng with a little Courbu. 40% Camaralet is unusual. I did some research into the differences between the two Mansengs and Courbu here viewtopic.php?f=3&t=48140&p=395685&hilit=courbu#p395685 .

Jurançon sweeties are excellent too and rarely cloying because of high acidity.

Prices for both dry and sweet mostly remain reasonable, c. €20 for the best, except for the Dagueneau family's efforts at Les Jardins de Babylone, where they are into into the €50+ zone.
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Bob Parsons Alberta

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Re: WTN: Why didn't anybody tell me...

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Thu Aug 04, 2016 9:20 am

Up here, I grab any wine that has Gros and Petit Manseng!
Last edited by Bob Parsons Alberta on Thu Aug 04, 2016 9:23 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: WTN: Why didn't anybody tell me...

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Thu Aug 04, 2016 9:22 am

delete
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Patchen Markell

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Re: WTN: Why didn't anybody tell me...

by Patchen Markell » Thu Aug 04, 2016 10:21 am

Thanks, Tim, very useful information and much more than I got from my Oxford Companion last night! I see you mentioned Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh; I stumbled across a bottle of this as well last week, and figured I should get some, since it was also mostly Gros Manseng; so I have that in the queue now, as well as a Clos Guirouilh Jurançon Sec from a third shop. (It seems every small shop in Chicago carries one sud-ouest white.) It will be fun to compare.
cheers, Patchen

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