by Patchen Markell » Thu Aug 04, 2016 6:58 am
...about Jurançon Sec till now?
The other day, with our supply of everyday whites dwindling, I stopped by a small local shop to pick up a bottle or two but was mostly uninspired by what I saw. But then I noticed a Domaine Cauhapé 2014 Jurançon Sec, "Chant des Vignes", for $16. Pretty sure I've never had any Jurançon at all, dry or sweet; didn't know what the grapes would be till I read the back of the bottle (Gros Manseng 60%, Camaralet 40%); in fact, the whole southwest of France is a bit of a mystery to me. So, I thought, what the hell, let's give it a shot.
And man, is that good! What I especially like about it is how it combines opposites: it's weightier than the crisp, steely whites I often drink (and think of myself as preferring), with a body edging closer to that of a ripe Gewurztraminer, but somehow feels light and summery rather than unctuous or heavy. Similarly, it's got ripe fruit characteristics (stone fruit and musk melon especially) but also a streak of resiny greenness running through it that plays a role not unlike what "minerality" does in other whites, keeping the riper flavors taut and focused. Floral, but in a nice peach-blossomy rather than honeysuckle way.
I'm not sure whether I just stumbled across one of the better wines in the appellation, or whether it just turns out that Gros Manseng speaks to me, but either way, I'm going back for more.
cheers, Patchen