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WTN: An aged Roero Arneis

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Roberto Vigna

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WTN: An aged Roero Arneis

by Roberto Vigna » Wed Jul 06, 2016 9:35 am

I recently attended as a sommelier a two-days Roero showing and tasting in Torino.

In a large and crowded room there was the “general” showing, about 100 producers with their red Roero and white Arneis. In a tiny and confortable classroom we had, in two days, twelve laboratori on different topics (verticals, horizontals, Roero against Langhe, Nebbiolo from other parts of Piemonte, Arneis against other bianchi from Piemonte, and so on – all bottles were blind for the tasters).

I like to remember that the Roero hills form the north side of the Tanaro river, while the Langhe begin, southbound, from the south bank of the river. Both are 40 minutes from home :!:

The general level was very good and the entire region has made a major step forward in terms of quality and cleanliness.
In the two days I have opened and smelled more than 150 bottles, and I was amazed about the low-level harassment of wood on the nose, once ubiquitous.
By the way, only two bottles were corked.

In the end, I had some bottles as gifts including this:

Roero Arneis Perdaudin Negro 2004

Even here in Piedmont it is not common to find a bottle of Arneis so old, and certainly the Arneis is not thought for a long time in the cellar, but the producer 12 years ago, due to favorable vintage and exceptional nature of the grapes, thought to forget some dozens of bottles in the cellar.
Decanted in the fridge for about 45 minutes. Perfect cork.
Golden and bright yellow, with no hint of weariness.
Very expressive nose, with ripe yellow fruit, herbs and evident mineral notes. The nose is softened by a gentle, almost sweet side, adding nobility and fragrance, note that I recently found in two serious aged Riesling from Piedmont, Herzu from Germano (2008) and Petracine from Vajra (2009).
Wide mouth and juicy fruit in beautiful evidence, perfect and never lacking acidity to support the sip and to match an insalata mista with warm roasted chicken.
A real pleasure to drink and enjoy, and a perfectly mature white wine.
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Jenise

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Re: WTN: An aged Roero Arneis

by Jenise » Wed Jul 06, 2016 12:54 pm

Wow! I've never had anything but young Arneis, and will admit to never considering letting them age the way I have, and am now in fact, letting some Vermentinos sit idle. This one sounds delightful.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Brian K Miller

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Re: WTN: An aged Roero Arneis

by Brian K Miller » Wed Jul 06, 2016 1:22 pm

Can I just say I love the terminology "harassment by oak"? :lol:

As an oakaphobe, I am stealing this!
...(Humans) are unique in our capacity to construct realities at utter odds with reality. Dogs dream and dolphins imagine, but only humans are deluded. –Jacob Bacharach
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Jenise

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Re: WTN: An aged Roero Arneis

by Jenise » Wed Jul 06, 2016 1:29 pm

Brian K Miller wrote:Can I just say I love the terminology "harassment by oak"? :lol:

As an oakaphobe, I am stealing this!


+1!
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Jon Leifer

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Re: WTN: An aged Roero Arneis

by Jon Leifer » Wed Jul 06, 2016 2:54 pm

Brian: sign me up too...and my wife as well..we are very oak averse..Not big on wines made for lumberjacks
Jon

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