Last night night I joined a charity tasting at Aquario in West Harrison. The wines of Paulo Laureano in Alentejo were featured, followed by some older wines from the cellar of the host and my friend Mark. Bread, cheese, and meats were out when we arrived, an amuse of spiced sausage, I had a first course of very good sardines, followed by some (dry/chewy) pork & clams.
2014 Paulo Laureano Ema’s Vineyard
This was the base white, a Verdelho, but I liked. An exotic musky edge along with a little grass, moderate acids, fresh and easy. B
2014 Paulo Laureano Alentejo Branco Reserve
Somewhat oily texture, some oak notes, tropical fruit, a little flat and round, others liked more. B/B-
2012 Paulo Laureano Tinta Grosso
Tannic, oak has a raw edge to it,some green notes, not my fave. B-/C+
2012 Paulo Laureano Touriga Nacional
This is a little glossy and plush, but nicely put together in a mid-modern package. Black fruit, mocha, good length. B
2012 Paulo Laureano Vinea Julieta Reserva
A blend of 3 indigenous grapes, lots of vanillin oak, smoke, red fruits. B
Followed by
1966 Ch. Montrose
Many thought this tired, they’re crazy, Mature but not fading, cassis with leather and tobacco. Quite fine. A-/B+
1982 Penfolds Grange
I’m usually a Grange skeptic, but this was quite lovely in a ripe/full throttle way. Concentrated black fruits, spice, a little baon. Moderate acids, tannins mostly resolved, good length. A-
1986 Henschke ‘Cyril Henschke” Cabernet Sauvignon
Very sweet fruit, a little oxidation, tired. B-/C+
1986 Henschke Hill of Grace
Blackberries, slightly stewed, lots of funky bretty notes. Storage? B- this bottle
1863 Blandy's Malmsey Solera Madeira
A solera not vintage ,undercertain when bottled (host had more than 20 years) but really quite lovely. Brilliant acids, toffee, nuts, citrus zest. Complex and long. A-
Fun night, and money raised for some good causes
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.