Another interesting lunch with Albert Givton (the only kind he holds!) in Vancouver at Pastis restaurant.
First, a vertical of Malartic Lagraviere.
1983 – excellent nose with some tobacco and currant, smooth entry, good acidity and good length.
1982 – very similar to the 93 but with sweeter fruit in both nose and finish. My favourite.
1979 – same general structure as the 82 but and edgier wine, but still very enjoyable.
1978 – lighter colour with a slightly musty nose – obviously now getting on a bit – drink up
1975 – many drinkers now lack experience with this unusual vintage. Huge tannic wines when young, and a race to see if there would be sufficient fruit when the tannins were finally tamed to result in an enjoyable wine. This one came up on the wine side – orange edges but still dark in the glass, and some nice foresty notes in the nose – earth, mushroom and also fruit. Still pretty firm but nonetheless enjoyable.
1988 Comte Senard Corton (blanc) – not a ton of grand cru whites made in Corton compared to the reds. Rich nose with citrus elements, and a hint of oxidation, darkening colour, good acidity and lots of stuffing.
Next up a comparative tasting of Albert Morot 1988 Beaunes from three different vineyards.
Bressandes – some round caramel notes in the nose, good colour, nice fruit level and good acidity.
Cent Vignes – interestingly, more depth in the nose, but a leaner wine with slightly higher acidity
de Teurons – excellent colour, a very good fruit based nose, ripe cherry fruit and nice lengthy balanced finish. My favourite.
Next was a vertical tasting of Faiveley Clos de Cortons:
1988 – an odd but not unpleasant nose of vitamin tablets. Smooth juicy entry and a long tasty finish. Before anyone rushes out to auction looking for this wine I should caution that Albert keeps a cool cellar and these notes likely will not reflect the status of less fastidiously kept bottles.
1990 – similar notes in the nose, plus earth and fruit, rounder in the mouth and sweeter and nice smooth silky finish. My fave.
1993 – as expected a higher acidity gave this a leaner aspect but nonetheless an attractive wine
1959 Pichon Baron – an ‘inter course’ wine that I’d been looking forward to. Many advocates of this chateau seem to forget that quality crashed after the very good 1959/1961 pair of vintages and with the exception of a good 1982, didn’t turn around until the 1988 vintage. Amazingly dark wine with a complex perfumed nose of cedar and cassis, great depth on palate and a long finish. Excellent.
1954 CUNE Rioja Gran Reserva Vina Real – still dark, though considerable browning at the edges, nose of vanilla and dill, then later notes of beef and tobacco. Fully mature, needs drinking, but not dried out.
1929 Guichard-Potheret Gevrey Chambertin – third bottle of this I’ve tasted. More tobacco and dill, and a lip smacking clean finish.
1979 Stag’s Leap Cask 23 – still has a quite deep fruit and mint nose, sweet fruit on palate and a medium long finish. Good bottle.
1963 Dow Port – great way to finish up and a pristine bottle. Starting to show bricking at the edges (a bit more than the 3 large format 1.8 litre bottles I’ve shared in) not too hot, silky smooth on palate with long balanced finish. Excellent.