Wines from dinner at Nico Osteria in Chicago:
Ermes Pavese 2014 Valle d'Aosta DOP Blanc de Morgex et de la Salle. 100% Prié Blanc. 12.0% ABV. Grown in high-altitude vineyards (ca. 1200m) around Morgex and La Salle in the northwest corner of the northwest corner of Italy, possibly on at least some pre-phylloxera rootstock. Focused, zesty white, reminiscent of something like Falanghina, but with a great deal more mineral intensity, which builds in the mouth, and plays very well with food; simultaneously quaffable and serious. Retails in the upper 20s, and it's excellent value at that price.
La Kiuva (cooperative) 2014 Arnad Montjovet DOC, Valle d'Aosta. 75% Picotendro plus an assortment of other local red grapes. Didn't see the ABV but in another vintage the label reported 12.5%. Picotendro is a local version of Nebbiolo, thinner-skinned and easier to ripen at these altitudes; this wine has characterstic aromas of smoked cherry and mushroomy earth, with just enough tannin to give it structure, but is otherwise much more accessible and easy-drinking than (what I think of as) a typical Nebbiolo. Recommended by the glass as a pairing with a grilled whole pompano served with maiatake mushrooms and currants plumped in Amaro Montenegro, and it worked wonderfully.